Up the South Slopes route with JS. El Diente is still holding snow late. Microspiked and ice axed up a few snowfields to the gray gully. Last north side stretch was inundated with snow but Jesse made quick work finding a ridge direct route to avoid it. Snow won't be out for weeks just under the summit.
Went up the south slopes with B and A, and it was a blast. Good deal of snow, and we had to use ice axe and microspikes to get to the gray gulley. Sticking to the ridge route to avoid snow at the top was fun. Glissading down the snowfields was great, and it was a good time to practice self arresting, especially in areas with low(er) risk. Beautiful trail to the basin, but there were a ton of mosquitos. Bring
Bug spray.
With Marshall. Outstanding timing on this one, due to our avoidance of rain/graupel while on the traverse. Super fun, interesting, and lots of exposure that grows as you move towards Mount Wilson. I thought the final 200 yards had the thinnest ridge and most exposure, but the holds are all there. Descending the standard MW route is talus city for days.
ericd - Aug 20, 2021 12:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2021
an DIY 14er!
Climbing this peak is a spectacular way to see the Uncompagre-San Juan range. The 2WD Kilpacker TH to summit is 6.3-miles and took 4.5-hrs to ascend. 1/2 of trail is meandering in lush green vegetation, the other 1/2 is well cairned talus fields. Gulley ascent below organ pipe rocks was loose rock & collapsed cairns until on the solid tooth. Combined with a traverse, the additional 2-hr, 1-mile section over to Mt Wilson has similar exposure around 3 relatively small size gendarmes and a narrow knife edge. Leather gloves & comfy shoes worked well with a little rain in mid-August. A 7-mile decent and/or 4 hours back to Kilpacker parking lot. Gotta DIY!
Woodie Hopper - Sep 24, 2019 6:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2019
North side using ROA approach, non standard route
Solo. Cut across the north face starting at the bottom of the snow in the couloir- worked fairly well. Took the traverse over to Mount Wilson afterwards.
yadahzoemtn - Feb 2, 2019 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018
Loved this one
Met Tony, Susan, and Bob. Wonderful time with these choice people. With Michael T.
eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 11:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2018
#1 09-22-18 W/ Lana. Did this the day after Mt. Wilson, both from a nifty camping spot at about 10,550' in tall pines. We enjoyed this ascent more than the Mt. Wilson experience of one day earlier. The climbing is on solid rock most of the time above 13,500'. The summit block is one of the smallest summits of the 46 14ers I've had the pleasure of standing atop. And thanks to Tony, Susan and Robert for their excellent company and helpful spotting.
Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017
#23
This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.
skorpeo - Dec 13, 2016 11:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2014
Due to some snow and ice on the ridge we decided to descent from Mt, Wilson into basin and start climbing El Diente from there. We were following well recognize trail almost to the top. I found ElDiente way easier than i expected. Great views from the top, amazing day in the mountains.
MissH - Aug 3, 2015 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2015
Via Kilpacker Approach
Lots of scrambling fun, great camping near trailhead. Ran out of time for traverse to Mt. Wilson. Climbed with MoapaPk (Harlan) and two others.
astroclimber - Aug 17, 2014 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2014
Another Beautiful Day
With Kat and Dave
Sarah Simon - Jul 5, 2014 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014
Kilpacker
Holy smokes, Kilpacker Basin is amazingly beautiful!!! Just incredible!!! We had nice snow to climb, enjoyable scrambling, incredible scenery! Loved this mountains. Got hammered by hail on the outhike, though. With Jaimee & Grant and Mike. What a day!
DanielL - Oct 9, 2013 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013
South face from Kilpacker
Enjoyed a fantastic early morning climb of El Diente from Kilpacker Basin - from what I heard from other climbers, the south route is a ton better than the standard North gully. Went on to traverse to Mt. Wilson.
Myself and partner. Backpack loop from Cross Mountain TH- Kilpacker basin- El Diente-Navajo Basin- Rock of Ages Saddle- Lizzard Head- back to Cross Mountain TH. Very sketchy descent on El Diente North couloir, triggered one significant and humbling snow/rockslide, hugged the East flank. Scary descent with heavy packs. Descending N. Couloir late in the summer not recommended. Perhaps the Wilson traverse and down has more stable rock.
BKiser90 - Jul 20, 2023 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2023
South Slopin through the SnowUp the South Slopes route with JS. El Diente is still holding snow late. Microspiked and ice axed up a few snowfields to the gray gully. Last north side stretch was inundated with snow but Jesse made quick work finding a ridge direct route to avoid it. Snow won't be out for weeks just under the summit.
JesseSumrak - Jul 18, 2023 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2023
El Diente South SlopesWent up the south slopes with B and A, and it was a blast. Good deal of snow, and we had to use ice axe and microspikes to get to the gray gulley. Sticking to the ridge route to avoid snow at the top was fun. Glissading down the snowfields was great, and it was a good time to practice self arresting, especially in areas with low(er) risk. Beautiful trail to the basin, but there were a ton of mosquitos. Bring
Bug spray.
BradBartick - Jul 23, 2022 5:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2022
The Tooth and Mount Wilson traverseWith Marshall. Outstanding timing on this one, due to our avoidance of rain/graupel while on the traverse. Super fun, interesting, and lots of exposure that grows as you move towards Mount Wilson. I thought the final 200 yards had the thinnest ridge and most exposure, but the holds are all there. Descending the standard MW route is talus city for days.
ericd - Aug 20, 2021 12:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2021
an DIY 14er!Climbing this peak is a spectacular way to see the Uncompagre-San Juan range. The 2WD Kilpacker TH to summit is 6.3-miles and took 4.5-hrs to ascend. 1/2 of trail is meandering in lush green vegetation, the other 1/2 is well cairned talus fields. Gulley ascent below organ pipe rocks was loose rock & collapsed cairns until on the solid tooth. Combined with a traverse, the additional 2-hr, 1-mile section over to Mt Wilson has similar exposure around 3 relatively small size gendarmes and a narrow knife edge. Leather gloves & comfy shoes worked well with a little rain in mid-August. A 7-mile decent and/or 4 hours back to Kilpacker parking lot. Gotta DIY!
Woodie Hopper - Sep 24, 2019 6:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2019
North side using ROA approach, non standard routeSolo. Cut across the north face starting at the bottom of the snow in the couloir- worked fairly well. Took the traverse over to Mount Wilson afterwards.
yadahzoemtn - Feb 2, 2019 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018
Loved this oneMet Tony, Susan, and Bob. Wonderful time with these choice people. With Michael T.
eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 11:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2018
Saw sunrise from near the summitSolo El Diente - Wilson traverse from Kilpacker
Moogie737 - Sep 23, 2018 10:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018
South Slopes from Kilpacker Basin#1 09-22-18 W/ Lana. Did this the day after Mt. Wilson, both from a nifty camping spot at about 10,550' in tall pines. We enjoyed this ascent more than the Mt. Wilson experience of one day earlier. The climbing is on solid rock most of the time above 13,500'. The summit block is one of the smallest summits of the 46 14ers I've had the pleasure of standing atop. And thanks to Tony, Susan and Robert for their excellent company and helpful spotting.
Onager - Sep 8, 2018 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2018
Good funSolo from Kilpacker. Fun route!
Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017
#23This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.
skorpeo - Dec 13, 2016 11:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2014
Great DayNorth Buttress route.
utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 5:11 pm
El DienteCombined with Wilson. Complicated descent.
Senad Rizvanovic - Sep 7, 2015 7:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2015
''Low'' traverseDue to some snow and ice on the ridge we decided to descent from Mt, Wilson into basin and start climbing El Diente from there. We were following well recognize trail almost to the top. I found ElDiente way easier than i expected. Great views from the top, amazing day in the mountains.
MissH - Aug 3, 2015 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2015
Via Kilpacker ApproachLots of scrambling fun, great camping near trailhead. Ran out of time for traverse to Mt. Wilson. Climbed with MoapaPk (Harlan) and two others.
astroclimber - Aug 17, 2014 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2014
Another Beautiful DayWith Kat and Dave
Sarah Simon - Jul 5, 2014 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014
KilpackerHoly smokes, Kilpacker Basin is amazingly beautiful!!! Just incredible!!! We had nice snow to climb, enjoyable scrambling, incredible scenery! Loved this mountains. Got hammered by hail on the outhike, though. With Jaimee & Grant and Mike. What a day!
MadGrad96 - Nov 1, 2013 10:34 pm
TraverseNorth buttress and traverse over to Mt Wilson
DanielL - Oct 9, 2013 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013
South face from KilpackerEnjoyed a fantastic early morning climb of El Diente from Kilpacker Basin - from what I heard from other climbers, the south route is a ton better than the standard North gully. Went on to traverse to Mt. Wilson.
rockymountaindiva - Jul 26, 2013 3:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012
El Diente-Mt WilsonFun traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson from Navajo Basin.
earth1 - Jul 15, 2013 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
South ascent/North descentMyself and partner. Backpack loop from Cross Mountain TH- Kilpacker basin- El Diente-Navajo Basin- Rock of Ages Saddle- Lizzard Head- back to Cross Mountain TH. Very sketchy descent on El Diente North couloir, triggered one significant and humbling snow/rockslide, hugged the East flank. Scary descent with heavy packs. Descending N. Couloir late in the summer not recommended. Perhaps the Wilson traverse and down has more stable rock.
Otherwise beautiful trip.