El Dorado, 5.8-5.10c

Overview/Approach

El Dorado is one of several features located relatively close together in a small east-west valley (named Middle Kingdom) at the north end of what the local guides call the “West Rim” at the entrance to North Wonderland.  The west rim refers to a massive hillside of jumbled rock that produces several good rock climbing faces including Hidden Dome,   Ellesmere and Gilligan’s Islands.  The West Rim can be seen in the distance to the north from the Boy Scout trailhead parking area which is located on the north side of the main park road.  You hike straight north on the Boy Scout trail and follow it left and then take the right fork for Willow Hole.  You are circumventing this West Rim around its west side.  Middle Kingdom’s valley opens up to the east as you pass Gilligan’s Island.  In this valley are three climbing destinations:  Techulator, Pernicious Dome and El Dorado.  El Dorado is the smallest of the three and closest to the Willow Hole trail.

Ed Dorado offers a spectacular 5.10 trad route by the name of Wide World of Sports, 5.10b/c*.  As the name implies, the crux of the climbing is finishing a corner roof crack through C4#4 territory.  This route offers two great sections of crack climbing.  To my knowledge there are zero bolts on this formation as of 2019.  From the summit you can scramble down the east end.

Park at the Boy Scout trailhead.  The hike is approximately 1.5 miles.  Head north on the main Boy Scout Trail and follow it left around the West Rim.  Take the right fork for Willow Trail and when a small valley opens up on the right (east) side, locate Ed Dorado’s darkly varnished face to the northeast and cut across the desert to its southwest face.  The only route that does not receive good sun is Rob’n the Cradle, 5.10c*, which is located on the northwest face.

Routes Listed Left to Right on the Southwest Face

Frank Shorter- 45’-5.9/

Wild World of Sports- 60’-5.10c*/ Excellent trad route deserving of more attention than the one star attributed in Miramontes’ local guide.  This is the most obvious route on El Dorado, with a clean C4#4 arching crack near the top of the formation under a roof.  This is the crux of the climb.  This upper crack is difficult to place gear on lead unless you have xtra-large fist jams.  You must layback the roof whilst torquing your feet on a blank face until you can land them on a small ledge that is somewhat hidden from below.  The gear call in the local guide does not reference it, but you need larger gear.  If I led it again, I would take two to three #4’s along with a #5.  Save one #4 and #5 for a gear anchor just over the top, otherwise you will not be able to set a top rope anchor.  Further back on the summit you can set up a medium gear belay and bring up the 2nd and walk off east.  A single rack will be more than sufficient for the rest of it.  Start up an easy face to a fun 5.10- slightly overhanging hands corner crack.  Then up easier ground again until the arching roof crack above.  Dow

Rob’n the Cradle- 60’-5.10c*/

Northwest Face

Agony of Defeat- 40’-5.8*/