Elbrus North route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.35000°N / 42.43330°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Difficulty: Russian Grade 2B
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

North route is totally different then South. It passes through wild nature of Caucasis Natural park. Elbrus from the north is a route for lovers of the virgin nature.There are no hotels, restaurants, cable cars and snow cats, so the climbers reach the summit by walking - from the beginning to the end.There are two camps on the way. Base camp is located on attitude of 2500 m, High camp - on 3800.

North route is available from April to October. In spring time it's a wondefful place for ski-touring. There are some facilities in camps: canteen, outside washbasin & toilet, sauna in Base camp and hot shower in High camp.

North route is classical route 'cause it was used for first Elbrus climbing in 1929. Since that time it was not complitely changed

Getting There

Way to Base camp starts from Kislovodsk city, located in 50 km of Mineralniye Vody airport. You can get a car from Kislovodsk to Dzhily-Su and walk 5 km to Base camp or use off-road vehicle to get straight to the camp. There is no public transport in this area and cellular communication is not stable, so you need to plan transfer to Kislovodsk beforehand.

Route Description

Climb starts from High camp of Elbrus tours. It takes 2,5-3,5 hours to reach Lentz rocks. As a rule, all climbers are striving to climb the West summit (5642 m). But the way to there is 3 hours longer than to the East summit (5621 m), so some people choose to climb the East one. Usually the decision is made at altitude of around 5100 m on the summit day.
Recommended to use harnesses from 3900 to 5000 (East) and 5300 (West summit). Usually 2 PM is a "point of descent" - all groups turns back not depended they reaches the Summit or not to have enough time to return back to High camp.
–°limb of East summit usually takes 8-9 hours up. Descent usually takes 4-5 hours. –°limb of West summit usually takes 9-10 hours up. Descent usually takes 5-6 hours.

Essential Gear

An ice axe, crampons, harnesses and rope are needed. Full expedition clothing is required. Plastic boots are needed in May and June. Even though the mountain is easy in a technical sense, the weather can be extremely cold and stormy.

External Links

You can book tour or hut there. LLC Elbrus tours also provides ski-tours and traverses from South to North and from North to South.
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