Thirteen years after turning around at the Eldorado Glacier to go down to study for a final in a class I can't remember, I finally went back and climbed the peak. I wish I hadn't studied for that test that I can't remember anymore. Oh well, I finally did it.
W/ Fletcher (repeat for him) after Dorado Needle. The route was easy and the summit ridge was a sidewalk - no need to rope up.
Full report: http://mvkazit.blogspot.com/2017/06/eldorado-peak.html
One day shot. Summit seems to go forever.
Route is in excellent conditions; virtually no crevasses for the entire way (and the only ones present are tiny). Excellent weather on the first day, but ended up summitting in a whiteout the second day. The ridge is fairly steep, but there's a well worth path to the top.
Awesome climb - did it as a one-day
Technically not a true summit, but I'm gonna call it one anyways. Hiked up Saturday afternoon through rain and a whiteout; camped just after the notch leading to Roush Basin. Snow starts at around 5200', just after the boulder fields. We ended up waiting all of Sunday for a storm to clear, and finally got blue skies that evening (first ones of the trip!). The five of us left camp at 2:30AM for the summit; climbing up the East ridge at sunrise was absolutely spectacular, especially with the blanket of clouds at around 5000'. The Eldorado/Inspiration glaciers are pretty tame currently; we didn't encounter any crevasses on our route. The final 50' of the knife edge ridge was pretty treacherous (60 degree slopes, huge cornice, and powdery snow from the previous night), so we decided to turn around. Back to the cars by around 2:30AM. An amazing climb altogether; I'll definitely be back someday to finish that last 50'.
I have lived in the Pacific Northwest for less than a year, so I have not done enough repeat summits to say for sure what my favorite peaks are. After 2 climbs of this one I know its going to be one on the list.
Did this one as a 2 day overnight where we stayed at the camp at the base of the ridge and climbed for a sunrise summit. Forrest fires obscured views of some of the mountains, but made for some crazy sunrise colors across the landscape.
Love that knife edge! This mountain gives a wonderful complete alpine experience.
First ascent on a non major peak, incredible time via Inspiration Glacier
What a great peak... especially for unusually favorable Winter conditions. An alpine classic. Highly recommended.
Glad for the Knife edge to add some flavor to this climb!
Was up on top right after dawn. Views were amazing! A nice mellow snow climb with a little knife edge to spice it up.
Camped on the ridge between Eldorado and Roush basins (~6100 ft), beautiful spot. Views are amazing everywhere. The knife edge was very narrow and exciting, but with great steps. Going just past the summit, there are some nice rocks to relax and have lunch. Boulder field really sucked on the way down. Great climb in an incredible area.
Excellent route! Great rock and awesome glacier travel.
Super-fun daytrip of Eldorado, Klawatti, and Dorado Needle. Trip report.
Wow. The summit of this mountain is amazing. It more than makes up for the approach, whose steepness would make Mailbox Peak blush. Great views and a beautiful route.
Amazing climb, camp and views! Trip Report
Fantastic climb!! Inspiration Glacier is fantastic! Thanks Josh for the tour.
This was my third time up this peak which was still a lot of fun. Summit ridge was in great shape as well as the glaciers.
Heat wave in Seattle made the going tough in the lower elevations. Totally bathed in sweat. There were a few easily traversed cravasses. Just enough space on the summit for all 4 of us to get photos.