I finally took my time on a mountain, 4 days on Eldorado and only 1 other party went above our base camp at 7800ft. A fantastic mountain with a lot less toil than I expected. The descent requires lots of knees. Bring extra.
It was a very exhausting single day push! When you put all my mistakes together, it was roughly 7,000' of elevation gain (regular route is 6,800' -- I ascended some gulleys twice). I was fortunate enough to be with a strong and careful team. Spectacularly beautiful going up. Brutally torturous going down (nasty conditions -- not what I expected).
My friend ave was severely overtired after 25 hours with no sleep had to call it at 6250 feet. I made the correct choice and stayed with him while my friend summited Eldorado! Expect another attempt soon!
12 inches of fresh snow slowed us down on this early spring ascent. We started at 3 AM and returned to the car at 9 PM for a total of 18 hours non-stop.
May 29, 1983 Three trips, the last one was succesful. Previous attempts: Aug 8, 1971 Was not ready for that much work, Jul, 1982 got weathered out.
Had an amazing climb via the standard East Ridge approach. Few crevasses and hazards. Snow was soft enough for easy climbing. Knife-edge ridge lived up to its bill as "Himalayan like." Great climb!!
First real mountaineering experience. Steep approach but so worth it. The knife edge is exhilarating.
Came in from the Forbidden Peak area ridgeline
Car to summit in a day, then hiked out the next morning. Stunning summit ridge and stellar summit views. Would dayhike it without hesitation, were I to go again.
Great climb with Mark Allen from International Mountain Guides. Thanks for the belay on the summit ridge!
Nice steep uphill trail hike, 2 boulder fields, more trail, snow, up and over a ridge, up a glacier to camp. Dance party at camp. Wake up at 5:00 to rain & a white out. Delay summit plans. Wake up at 7:00 to clear skies and off we go. Uphill glacier slog, followed by a spectacular summit ridge. Thanks, Ian, Ken & Magnus!
Socked in on top. Great 360-degree views of the inside of a cloud!
Esugi and I climbed the route in a day and a half. Brought 4 screws, a picket, fluke, set of nuts, #2-.5 Camalots. Used all 4 screws, both snow pro, some small nuts and I think only the .75 but another party last week said they used more cams and no nuts. Great climb, but I don't think I'll be making that approach again anytime soon. A bit too much slogging for a bit too little climbing.
Hiked up to meadows in very hot weather. Next morning crossed the glacier and climbed the ridge to summit. The pictures of the final ridge don't do it justice. It will make you pucker but it was a great climb. This mountain rocks!
All I remember about this climb was the long,hot approach and the spectacular summit!
Steep approach!, after that though, everything is beautiful. Did this with a couple of good climbing buds, Brian & Steve. Lots of running water and small bivy spots east side of the ridge between 5500' & 6000'. On summit day watched a thunder & lightning storm roll past hitting us with a couple of light showers, but not enough to turn us back. It turned out to be a great summit day. The bugs were bad from 5500' back to the car. I'm not one that likes switch-backs, but that approach could use a few at least...
Finally! After failing 2 years ago due to a storm that blew in overnight (I know, it's common in this area.), finally tagged this one. Went with Karl and Steve and camped just before the ridge in the wonderful slabby meadows. Criss-crossed paths with a group of 9 Mountaineers from Seattle throughout the day. Great views and enjoyed a Caldera Pale Ale cooled in a glacial spring afterwards at camp. And of course, the traditional bacon cheeseburger at Buffalo Run in Marblemount afterwards. Incoming storms put a crimp in our plans to climb Liberty Bell the next day, or perhaps it was the 7000+ feet of elevation and pounding that boulder field gave me..........
Climbed with a great Mountaineers group led by Ron R.. Camped in Roush Creek Basin on snow. Summitted via the East Ridge. A bergschrund near 8,400 ft but it was easily crossed on a large snowbridge. Heavy rain and poor visibility but a successful trip.
Aside from mushy snow (post holing up to knees), the route was in great shape. Fantastic views! I climbed with my friend Rod Xuereb. After Eldorado we did the south face of Klawatti.
Tagged and bagged. River crossing out of the gate was adventurous and tricky! On the way back, I think we found the proper route across. What a sufferfest though. Spectacular scenery above tree line. Set camp up high at the base of the E Ridge, then toughed out the final bit (which was pretty easy and filled with bucket steps) and returned for good night, packing out the next day.