Eliot Glacier/Sunshine Route

Eliot Glacier/Sunshine Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.37360°N / 121.6925°W
Additional Information Route Type: Basic Snow/Glacier Climb
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Difficulty: Grade II, Class 3
Sign the Climber's Log


From Portland take Interstate 84 to Hood River and drive south on State Highway 35 towards Mount Hood for approximately 20 minutes. Turn right on Cooper Spur Road the second time you encounter it. It is a loop. Two and a half miles later turn left on Cloud Clap Road. This is located right across from the Cooper Spur Inn. Take the right fork of this road and go nine miles. Turn right at the "T" towards the Cloud Cap Campground. The drive from Portland takes 2 hours. At Cloud Cap Campground follow the Timberline Trail 600.

A Northwest Forest Pass ($5/day or $30/year) is required to park at the trailhead.

Route Description

The approach to the Eliot Glacier follows the lower aspects of the Cooper Spur route. With the impressive headwall above, descend down from the lateral moraine along a climbers trail below the spur to the Eliot Glacier and cross toward the right side of the glacier roughly aiming for Horseshoe Rock. The climb avoids the upper Eliot Glacier Icefall to the climber's left and the lower icefall to the right. Climb towards the snowdome and on toward Cathedral Ridge. Navigate across the bergshrund and at this point continue up the ridge to the summit.

The route is best during May, June or July. Early season ski descents are popular as are descents down the Hogsback route to the Timberline Lodge area.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, rope, pulleys, etc.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.