Ellingwood Chimney, 5.8, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Ellingwood Chimney is the most historical route at Cathedral Spires.  It was climbed “before the invention of rappelling” in 1924 by Albert Ellingwood and was considered the hardest route in the country at the time.  Supposedly he lowered his partners and downclimbed the route.  The Bishop is the most aesthetic formation of the Cathedral Spires in my opinion.  The lightning bolt crack splitting the entire formation (east to west) on the opposite side of the Ellingwood Chimney is Bishop's Offwidth, 5.11a.   Bishop’s Chimney, 5.9X, is a beautiful stem chimney splitting the Bishop north and south in colorful streaked stone.

The first pitch of Ellingwood lands you in a beautiful walk-through chamber 3/4ers up the west face of the formation not dissimilar to the Window Route in Sedona, AZ. The crux is the awkward move over the chockstone early on.  From there the climbing mostly involves standard chimney technique. The 2nd pitch climbs up a flake in the “window” to a shoulder, then on to the summit to the north via a short bit of runout 5.7 wide corner past an ancient bolt.  One double rope rap gets you down the north face.

The approach for the Bishop in the Fixed Pin publishing guidebook is not recommended.  Rather the approach for the Bishop and the Dome is the same.  The guide book does a poor job (2021) explaining the approaches for both of these features.  We were at the dome on a Sunday and the two other parties climbing on it that day got lost getting up to it.  Start up the Sunshine Wall trail.  At a marked sign (2021) and/or first junction, stay straight at this junction and in short order cross a tiny running creek (2021).  Continue to another junction with a soft bivy spot.  Turn left and follow this trail that turns into an old road.  Private property signs are posted, but “no trespassing” signs are not.  Continue on this road a short distance to a cairn on the right.  This cairn marks the bottom of a grassy ridge that leads straight to the middle of the Dome formation.  Continue up slope versus crossing the boulder field to the base of the Dome.  Reach the col (ridge) between the Dome and Bishop formations and turn south towards the Bishop.  Meander through boulders and ramps to the base of the west face and the obvious chockstone start.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 140’-5.8/ The crux of the route is awkward mantling above the chockstone at the start.  The crux moves are well protected by a small cam and/or slinging the chockstone.  Most of the remaining climbing is chimneying to a comfortable window alcove in the tower, medium gear belay.  There is a short steep crack section that divides two chimney sections.  At the second chimney, there is a ring piton out left (2021).  Ignore that and continue up the left leaning chimney above which leads to the window alcove.  There is plenty of gear opportunities in small cracks in both chimneys. 

2^nd Pitch- 80’-5.7/ Climb the corner formed by the flake.  You can protect it with a #3.  Then up to a ledge with a rap.  Turn north and continue up to another ledge with a rap.  Climb the wide low angled corner up and right to the summit anchor.  There is an ancient bolt on this corner in 2021.  You are mostly soloing the corner, 5.7 (without much exposure), with some chimney/OW moves.

Descent

One double rope rap down the north face.

Essential Gear

Double ropes would be preferable.  Single to #3.  Route is west facing.