One day made all the difference. The previous day, July 13, we had gotten shut down on this route.
Weather got increasingly worse after we left Camp Shurman. One of our two rope teams made it to 13,000 feet but then it was turn around or else....
My first Rainier climb and a lot of fun. In August, the Inter Glacier was the most exciting with lots of bare ice and rockfall - felt like dodgeball. Finding our way to Camp Schurman was also a little tricky, there are many ways to get there but all involve scrambling loose rocks or skirting big crevasses. There was water at Camp Schurman and no winds for us. The route itself above Camp Schurman was "well traveled" and felt more straightforward and safer. The bergschrund was absolutely monstrous but doable by skirting to the north. All in all a great way to get up Rainier and not have to take the DC.
After getting turned around by weather at 12,000' last year, it was a thrill to get to the summit this season!
Climbed with 3 but only 2 of us summited. Great weekend for weather, and what a great route! Schurman was a great camp as well.
First glacier climb without a guide! Followed the deep boot track in the dark. Very crowded at camp Schurman. The glacier was very open and the route wandered quite a bit. The bridges are melting out and had to traverse around the burgshurnd on the right to the Liberty Cap saddle.
Pictures are here.
Route in great shape overall with many crevasses quickly opening up due to the warm weather and heavy rains during recent thunderstorms. We hunkered down in our tents after returning to Emmons Flats because of some wonderful thunderstorms.
Led a three-person climb in late August. The hike through Glacier Basin is much more interesting than Muir Snowfield. Lots of crevasses ensured a great deal of route finding. Punched through a few snowbridges. Weather turned us around at 13,000. Really foul descent with lots of rain loosened rockfall on the IG. Thoroughly soaked by the time we arrived back at White River Campground. Learned a lot of lessons on this one.
A good route. Not really any technical difficulties, but some massive crevasses to run around and a few hairy snow bridges. Awesome views the whole way and Camp Schurman is substantially nicer than Camp Muir in my opinion.
Succeeded both times, but about 4 times faster the second time.
and it felt like a completely different climb because of the conditions of the glacier.
Summited via this route twice. Last time was in early fall so the crevasses where very visible.
Couldn't have asked for better weather conditions!
Great day but tiring. Weather cooperated except for the windy summit.
Very long route! snowboard descent, the ride down kind of sucked but the ride down the prow was great!
Spent the night up on the summit. It was a glorious trip.
The 2nd most popular route on the mountain. Rainier is very fun and rewarding. Much better than the DC. Less people and no rock fall danger and more direct!
Nice climb. The weather was great, the route was in poor condition, however. See the trip report.
First time and we had great conditions it was awesome.
In 1991 the first climb of Rainier by One Step At a Time (OSAT) resulted in 24 of 35 climbers summiting. Most had begun the year with no mountaineering experience. Every year since the the OSAT Glacier Climbing Class has resulted in several successful climbs of Mt. Rainier.
I've done the route 3 more times since. I've done it as 3 and 4 day trips,too. You can go up to Glacier Basin the first afternoon, then haul up to Schurman the next day and get a longer rest before the summit day. Spending a day at Emmons Flats "laying around like marmots" and watching the other teams come and go can be fun, too, but I would not recommend spending a day down by the hut.