Climbed Epinephrine in either 2005 or 2006. Linked several pitches up higher, for a total of 10 pitches to the top.
My 3rd trip up Epi, back home to St. George for dinner. Would really like to solo this route next time. With Michael B. Great weekend showing the Gobbler direct/DOWT and Epi the next day, he had done neither. Beautiful night camping near Windy Peak...does not get any better.
Super classic. 6 hours to summit both times.
Climbed this route with my friend Rudy. It was a chilly/windy day and I wore my fleece the entire time, sometime wishing I had more layers. We were the first party on the wall. We carried 3L of water for the 2 of us, which was too much. Rudy did all the leading and I struggled with the pack through the chimney.
We linked a few pitches and completed the route in 9 pitches total. 10 hours car-to-car. The descent took 1h30. Great climb!
Climbed route with Tyler. This route has been on our tick list for years and it finally went down. Hiked out in the dark and got to the base right when it was getting bright. A couple from Flagstaff, John and Sharon caught up with us. We decided to let them go ahead since this would be their 3rd time to our 1st. By the time we started, there were 3 other parties in line behind us. Tyler ran the 1st pitches together. I took pitch 2 to the base of the real chimneys. Pitch 3, chimney 1, went to tyler and i combined the next 2 chimneys as pitch 4. Pitch 5 to the Elephant Trunk was mine then tyler combined the next 5.9 pitches-pitch 6. 7 and 9, both were my leads and tyler did pitch 8. that brought us to the ramp and easy scrambling. thats 9 pitches with 2 60 meter ropes. Car to car was about 12 hrs. Fun time. John and Sharon left us 2 cold ones at the truck-for letting them go first. I would have hauled their gear to the base if they promised a 6 pack.
The first time I did this climb in the late 90's it was a 12 hour day. This time it was very casual and we finished in under 8hrs.
Climbed with Peter from Google for the first time. I left my house near St. George at 3:00 am, mountain time, 2:00 pacific, to meet Peter at 3:30. We left St. George, UT around 3:45 am and drove straight to Black Velvet Canyon. At 5:15 am (Pacific time) we left the truck and started the approach. The climb was everything I thought it would be. Epinephrine has been on my tick list for nearly 7 years now and did not let me down. The only scary part was on the 5.9 section of the second to last pitch, which had some really run-out face climbing. Peter and I climbed steady, but not overly fast and were on the summit at 3:30 pm (Pacific). The descent was straight forward and easy to follow in the daylight. This time of year there is less than 12 hours of sun and was a major concern. I would not recommend attempting the descent in the dark. We were lucky enough to be moving fast and were back to the truck at 5:15 pm, just a few minutes after sundown.
My 2nd time up in 2008. With Bobby from NY. Good times, went really smooth. Little more daylight to work with than back in February, still a tad chilly though. Guess I took the same leads I had last time, 1st and 3rd of the harder chimney pitches and the 1st 5.9 face pitch along with all the other which is easy stuff. Both times my partners got a little off route on pitch 3 of the climb, the 5.6 chimney pitch. One stayed in the chimney too long, the other went out to early. Interesting. I need to lead that next time I guess.
Had a great day enjoying the shade and calm winds. Finished the route in 9 pitches. The chimneys are definitely a good workout; the upper pitches had great exposure but not sustained and probably a bit soft. We only saw 3 other people the whole day and they were climbing low on POD or something else nearby.
Short day in February, but worked out great avoiding anyone else on the route. I led the odd pitches, gave me the 1st and 3rd 5.9 chimney pitches....I do good in chimneys so thought they were slightly exaggerated, but definitly fun. We rigged a haul bag for our shoes, etc. All worked out well hauling the pig through the chimney. The wind was brutal on the upper face pitches. I got the 80' 5.9 above the elephant trunk, real fun and steep, but again, little soft for the rating I thought, more 5.8ish. The roof move above was not 5.9 either. We un roped at the top of the 11th pitch. Snow and ice chocked full the narrow foot ledge at the end towards the large tree. That was interesting. Another, grand day at Red Rocks with Zach.
A pre-dawn start from the BLM campground didn't do us much good when we couldn't find the turnoff to Black Velvet in the dark. We left the parking lot at first light, only to find a party of 3 already on the route. Two other teams showed up right behind us. We spent the first ten pitches on the heels of the first team and then blasted past them on the 5.6 pitch. Back at the car after 12 hours. Great, if crowded, route.
We had perfect conditions in the middle of May. I had been leading on gear for a little over a year and one of those long chimney pitches took EVERYTHING out of me, I reached the belay ledge and puked! Awesome route though, we did it in 10 long pitches and were down with plenty of daylight.