Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Created On: Apr 22, 2005
Last Edited On: Sep 14, 2006


Same as directions on main Pennyroyal Arches page. Euphoria is on the left side of the large, central exfoliation, so aim for that before entering the woods.

Route Description

There are several cracks that trend up and right on the left side of Pennyroyal Arch's large, central exfoliation. Euphoria climbs the second from the left .

Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the dark, dirty crack up and around a bend to the left (5.7) to a gear belay.

Pitch 2: 5.5. Continue up the crack, being sure to get in good gear. After reaching a small ledge, climb straight up 30' of unprotected 5.5 face to a gear belay just below a large flake. I originally led to the ledge, then ended up leading the runout with no gear between me and the anchor. Don't do that.

Pitch 3: 5.7. Lieback and stem up the excellent, clean flake (5.7) and into a corner above. This pitch is one of the best at the grade I've done in Tuolumne. Belay where it is convenient.

Pitch 4: 5.6. Continue up the corner, stemming and jamming, as the climb gradually eases off. A few feet of slab at the top bring you to a few trees that make excellent anchors.

Descent: Rap with two 60-meter ropes from the top of The Hump.

Essential Gear

I used a 60m rope on this climb, and was tempted into climbing longer pitches, which made me miss most of the better belay spots. However, two 60-meter ropes are necessary to rap Pennyroyal Arches.

There are no bolts on this climb. The cracks accept gear very well. Take a set of stoppers and 1 each 0.5"-2.5" cams.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Martin Steiger - Jul 14, 2015 8:45 pm - Hasn't voted


The rappel route goes all the way to the ground. The last rap is a free hang in space over the arch and it is about 100 feet to the bottom. The anchor for it is 130 below the third anchor next to a narrow depression near the lip.

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