Who thought this was a good idea? What is this even trying to be?
Many inexperienced climbers have this reaction when first seeing the EDK. This is a very commonly used knot to join rappel ropes. All of my partners use it. Here is an explanatory article that goes into more detail on the American Alpine Institute's blog: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2011/08/euro-death-knot-overhand-bend.html
we use it 100% of the time for canyoneering.
The picture here does not show the common use of tying two ropes together for rappeling. The ropes in your pictures are pararel to each other, the correct way to use double fisherman knots to tie the ropes is having the ends of the ropes opposing each other. Most climbers I know use that set-up, have used it for at least 40 years and I am not aware of any issues with it. What am I missing here?
This is not a fisherman's knot, it is an overhand bend, AKA Eruo Death Knot. They are less likely to hang up and are easier to untie than fisherman's knot. The EDK is IFMGA approved, and used by all my partners. The American Alpine Institute has an article here that explains it in more detail: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2011/08/euro-death-knot-overhand-bend.html
I'm surprised you have never seen this used in 40 years of climbing, it has pretty much replaced fisherman's knots for joining two ropes of equal diameter because it is easy to tie, easy to untie, and when the ropes are pulled the knot turns away from the rock making it less likley to hang in a crack or behind a flake. The first time I saw it used was by a friend and local ice cilmbing guidebook author. He brought the practice back from the Canadian Rockies.
Very interesting. No, I have not seen this used by anyone I ever climbed with. I use the double fisherman knot tied to opposing ends of the rope. My friends routinely do the same. One learns something every day, thanks.
If your comment was directed toward me twoshuzz, I will not be using or appreciating the EDK. Since I can routinely and quickly tie two ropes with fisherman knots blindfolded (I used to demonstrate this and other knots tying in classes I tought), I will stick with it. After all these years of doing it one way, I don't see much of a reason to change. Not saying that if you are young and find this EDK preferable, that you should not learn it. But I find safety in knowing that I can tie my ropes even if I'm dead tired or even not thinking clearly...BTW I have never been stranded nor had my DFK hang up while rapping!
the best knot or system is the one the climber is most comfortable and efficient with. Nothing wrong with a double fisherman's knot, it is very safe. Also, nothing wrong with an EDK. One thing I learned from climbing with a teenage Colin Haley (I was twice his age) was to open my mind to new ways of doing things.