Eviction Crag, 5.10a-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Eviction Crag is normally used as a start or finish to your day when based out of the Circle Creek trailhead. It only has four published routes (2018), but they are all stellar. Two are on the east face, one is on the north face and one is on the west face. Bad Seed (photos), 5.11c**, is a fully bolted route that has a punchy (“salty overlaps via cryptic cranking”) crux at the roof mid height. Chip Off the Old Block, 5.10c*, is a fun sport climb just to the right of Bad Seed. They each have their own fixed rap anchor.  Like Father, Like Son, 5.10a**, is to the right of Bad Seed and Chip on the short north face. It is on the best rock of the formation but is short through just three bolts to its own anchor. The Eviction, 5.10c***, is perhaps my favorite bolted route in the park on excellent rock and runs up the gut of the west face, left end.

From the Circle Creek trailhead, follow the road to where the cattle gate is, less than 10 minutes. Eviction Crag is the formation to your right. Turn right and follow the fence line and step through it to the base of the east face.

East Face, Left to Right

Bad Seed- 70’-5.11c**/ (see photos)

Chip off the Old Block- 80’-5.10c*/ Fully bolted line. One of the better 5.10 sport climbs I have done at the City albeit I have done way more trad in the reserve. It is worthy of more credit than the guidebook author gives it. It is located side by side with Bad Seed, each with their own fixed anchor and taller than the guide has listed. The crux is after the first clip, hands matched on a large sloper, then a small dyno to a right handed crack opposite. Great movement up steep ground and well bolted, at least 7 if not 8 bolts. Sustained 5.9-5.10-. Dow

North End

Like Father, Like Son- 25’-5.10a**/ Fully bolted line on the best rock (heavily varnished) of the formation located at the north end. Just three bolts to the fixed anchor. Nice and steep with fun movement. Come in from the right to start. Positive edges and/or jugs to the top. Dow

West Face

Eviction- 80’-5.10c***/ Possibly the best 5.10+ sport route at the City.  The rock and movement are both outstanding.  At the left end of the west face.  Fully bolted.  Lighter colored varnished rock.  Start right to left and climb steep to slightly overhanging juggy terrain.  The crux is midway, a stem up to a hold you cannot see, pressing into the stem with your right hand.  Pretty cool move.  Again, too many options at the crux can lead to confusion, but this is the neater move for sure.  Another mild crux is the cranking involved through the last bolt or two, again, slightly overhanging.  The FAer’s discuss traversing in from the left on this final section which is what I did, but you can lead through it direct as well.  Positive holds.  Fixed rap.  Dow