Experts Choice, III, WI 6

1st Pitch- 130’- WI 6/ The center and left portion of this fall is normally quite thick. The middle portion gets its rating from the many hanging pillars creating at times, overhanging ice on the first pitch. There is typically a large hole on the left side of the center curtain. We chose a line just right of that hole and went straight up, traversing at the last few meters back left into a comfortable significant sized ice cave above the large hole. It had a small entrance that needed to be cleaned away in 2008, but made for quite the belay station for a party of three. This pitch is sustained and varied. You could pick a line left or right for several meters.
Experts Choice, III, WI 6, Middle Route, 3 Pitches, Waterton National Park, Canadian Rockies, January, 2008

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tanya

tanya - Jan 31, 2008 9:21 am - Voted 10/10

Brrrrrr!!!!

That's a lot of ice!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jan 31, 2008 11:56 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Brrrrrr!!!!

-35c when I left, ouch!!!....not too many folks who hop in a plane from St. George to Calgary in January, eh? empty plane up, full plane on the return...cheers Tanya

tanya

tanya - Jan 31, 2008 1:45 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Brrrrrr!!!!

Yep.. you are a different breed! (That is meant in a good way!)

AJones

AJones - Mar 2, 2008 10:38 pm - Voted 10/10

Wow!

Great photo - one of my favourite ice climbing pics. My partner and I have a new rule (started last year) - no ice climbing if the temps are colder than 20 below (Celsius). We are much too wimpy!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Mar 3, 2008 10:24 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Wow!

Thanks AJ, that was supposed to be my threshold as well...one of my partners carries a thermometer...we were in the bottom of Marble Canyon....I just said I didn't want to know till that night....-28 was the "high" that day, too cold for reasonable ice climbing..but when you don't know, you can always pretend it is warmer..cheers

AJones

AJones - Mar 3, 2008 9:43 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Wow!

Pretty much the same thing happened to us on the Weeping Wall last winter. It was so cold my vehicle just about didn't start at the end of the day (didn't have a thermometer though). We both got frostbitten toes, which plagued me into rock climbing season. We sort of had fun though...

GCutforth

GCutforth - Mar 3, 2008 11:32 pm - Voted 10/10

Great Pic

Thanks for the pics Dow. The light spindrift off the top and the wild terrain make this an amazing photo. I saw this route from the road this year and saw some other pics from climbers. It looks like a wild line.

Tomek Lodowy

Tomek Lodowy - Dec 10, 2010 8:06 pm - Voted 10/10

mmmm...

looks like a dream and climb, windy up there!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Dec 11, 2010 10:28 am - Hasn't voted

Re: mmmm...

and bit chilly as I recall, cheers

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