Ferrari

Page Type
Route
Location:
Ancash (Cordillera Blanca), Peru, South America
Route Type:
Ice Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
AD+

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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80.21% Score
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Page By:
Ferrari
Created On: Apr 18, 2002
Last Edited On: Sep 27, 2003

Overview


Ferrari is the easiest and therefore the most popular route to Alpamayo. It crosses the bergschrund near its uppermost part and follows the runnels to the ridge.
Most times snow stakes for belaying and abseiling are in situ. When the route is prepared for commercial expeditions you may even find a fixed rope.
The runnels are quite narrow, therefore it's impossible to avoid the ice-fall caused by other climbers. This can be a serious problem, when there are too many climbers in the route (except you are the first)

NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Ferrari Route seem to have changed. See summit log

Approach


From the Col camp you first have to descend about 50m and then continuosly ascend the slopes under the SW-face. The climb starts right of the uppermost section of the bergschrund. 1½ - 2h from the camp.

Route Description


Cross the bergschrund (varying conditions, approx. 70°, 10m) and head up to a prominent rock in the centre of the SW face. Follow the runnel to the snow ridge. As the ridge is constantly changing, you can't be sure, that you exactly reach the highest point of the mountain, but it would be too dangerous to traverse. 8-9 pitches, 4-5h

Except for the bergschrund the route has a moderate inclination of 45°, getting steeper only in the last pitch (55°). The ice is not very compact and partially mixed with hard snow.

Essential Gear


Two ropes, two ice axes, crampons, helmet!
Usually you find snow stakes in the route but I would recommed to take ice screws and snow stakes (2 per climber) with you. It's possible to buy and sell them later in Huaraz.

You do not have sun in the route until noon, so be prepared for a cold day!

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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kabernicola

kabernicola - Sep 30, 2007 9:37 am - Hasn't voted

Not the ferrari

I´m afraid this route is not the ferrari, it was investigated by antonio gomez bohorquez (HE WRITES ABOUT ANDES IN THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL)and he discovered that this route was not the one ascended by ferrari (the italians climb up what is know as the french direct). Everything is in this book http://andesinfo.com/libreria/libros/libros.php . The fact is, it was a first mistake and after that everybody copied from the one before... and thats how the mistake remained as the truth!...if you want to ahave an accurate page check that info first...good job anyway

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