You're probably aware of this, but some routes no longer exist. In particular, either the 1st 1 or 2 (from what I recall) pitches of the Northcutt-Carter route on Hallett Peak were obliterated in a massive rockfall incident a number of years ago. Also, I seem to recall an enormous pillar starting to sag on the Durrance route on Devils Tower, as reported in Climbing magazine a month or 3 ago.
Radek: Excellent idea on starting the SP "contest". Let me be the first. My 50CC total is 19. BTW, if you need any info on the original book, I have it in hard cover. The book IMO suffers from insufficient information, the worst is regarding descents. I have extensive notes on those 19 routes if this will be any part of your good project. I think the book was really something when it came out all those years ago, it brought many of us to places we would have never gone had it not been for the book. It's good idea to make a page of it. Alois.
Hi Alois,
Thank you very much Sir & congratulations on the 19!! That's quite an achievement! Please let me know if there's some stuff that you think should be added (esp. something that is in the original edition and not in the softcover reprint). Also, I'd love to hear more about the specific routes you've ticked off as well as any info you have on those.
Best regards,
Radek
I have 18, if you count substitutions :
Hesse-Ferguson for Northcutt-Carter, Hallet Peak (Northcut-Carter is unsafe now)
Casual Route, The Diamond, for D1? (is that the route described in Roper?)
I have all the California 50CC, except Fairview Dome & Traveler's Buttress.
Great idea for this page. This book was one of the earliest & most profound influences on my climbing career. Some of the routes either suck, have changed or are just too hard(hummingbird ridge), but most are accessible for motivated teams. I think it's a shame many of these routes have been "upgraded". The YDS was meant to be a stout rating system & too many modern climbers want to pad their resumes with big numbers so classic routes get new ratings. Keep in mind all those routes were put up before chalk, sticky rubber, cams, harnesses & belay devices. Personally, I'm more stoked on a old school 5.9+ than a modern 5.10d.
Great effort though rpc-thanks for the work.
So far I'm at 15 of the 50, which one's next?
I did a Howser Spire page and Becky/Chouinard page on the weekend (sick with the flu) - so you can add it if you want. (I've done 7 - going for 8 this summer)
Diggler - Sep 27, 2006 7:54 pm - Hasn't voted
Good idea & start, RadekYou're probably aware of this, but some routes no longer exist. In particular, either the 1st 1 or 2 (from what I recall) pitches of the Northcutt-Carter route on Hallett Peak were obliterated in a massive rockfall incident a number of years ago. Also, I seem to recall an enormous pillar starting to sag on the Durrance route on Devils Tower, as reported in Climbing magazine a month or 3 ago.
rpc - Sep 27, 2006 7:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Good idea & start, RadekThanks Dirk!
Yeah, I was kinda hinting at the evolving nature of the routes in my smart ass opening notes :)
To start with, this is just a word for word summary of stuff in R&S.
asmrz - Oct 6, 2006 5:00 pm - Voted 10/10
Let's Start the 50 CC contestRadek: Excellent idea on starting the SP "contest". Let me be the first. My 50CC total is 19. BTW, if you need any info on the original book, I have it in hard cover. The book IMO suffers from insufficient information, the worst is regarding descents. I have extensive notes on those 19 routes if this will be any part of your good project. I think the book was really something when it came out all those years ago, it brought many of us to places we would have never gone had it not been for the book. It's good idea to make a page of it. Alois.
rpc - Oct 6, 2006 10:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Let's Start the 50 CC contestHi Alois,
Thank you very much Sir & congratulations on the 19!! That's quite an achievement! Please let me know if there's some stuff that you think should be added (esp. something that is in the original edition and not in the softcover reprint). Also, I'd love to hear more about the specific routes you've ticked off as well as any info you have on those.
Best regards,
Radek
poorboy44 - Oct 6, 2006 11:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Let's Start the 50 CC contestI have 18, if you count substitutions :
Hesse-Ferguson for Northcutt-Carter, Hallet Peak (Northcut-Carter is unsafe now)
Casual Route, The Diamond, for D1? (is that the route described in Roper?)
I have all the California 50CC, except Fairview Dome & Traveler's Buttress.
rpc - Oct 11, 2006 4:13 pm - Hasn't voted
baby steps8.
Flex - Dec 26, 2006 6:23 pm - Voted 9/10
A liftime of challengeGreat idea for this page. This book was one of the earliest & most profound influences on my climbing career. Some of the routes either suck, have changed or are just too hard(hummingbird ridge), but most are accessible for motivated teams. I think it's a shame many of these routes have been "upgraded". The YDS was meant to be a stout rating system & too many modern climbers want to pad their resumes with big numbers so classic routes get new ratings. Keep in mind all those routes were put up before chalk, sticky rubber, cams, harnesses & belay devices. Personally, I'm more stoked on a old school 5.9+ than a modern 5.10d.
Great effort though rpc-thanks for the work.
So far I'm at 15 of the 50, which one's next?
rpc - Dec 26, 2006 7:22 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A liftime of challengeThanks Flex & congrats on the 15. Been enjoying your photo submissions!
AJones - Mar 29, 2009 9:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Howser SpireHi Radek
I did a Howser Spire page and Becky/Chouinard page on the weekend (sick with the flu) - so you can add it if you want. (I've done 7 - going for 8 this summer)
Aaron
rpc - Mar 30, 2009 11:58 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Howser SpireAaron - thank you. Give me day or so & I'll add the link.
radek
rpc - Mar 30, 2009 4:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Howser SpireDone - also added link to your Lotus F.T. page (great stuff!)