Amazing climb as always. The Twin cracks pitch transition from two cracks into the single crack still gave me fits, but the rest was smooth.
Longer approach than expected but the climb went smoothly. The climbing was stellar and varied. Rope got stuck on last rappel so watch out. Done with Duc, Matt, and Doug.
This as always been on my buck list. Thank you Sawtoothsean for getting me to the top. I loved every minute of it.
Abe and I climbed the Open Book and it was most excellent! I felt the route was very well protected, even the 5.5 30-35ft "runout" on the second to last pitch can be protected with a bomber thread about halfway thru the "runout". We didn't wind up climbing the summit block since we weren't sure which way to go and we couldn't find the pin. Now we know where it's at, and now we've got a reason to go back and get the last 15ft.
Great day! Led all 7 pitches. Crux moves for me were on Pitch 2 (layback crack/offwidth) and Twin cracks when you are full feet and hands in only right crack. Summit moves 5.7, nothing more although they felt easier. I do not remember the crystal finger pockets used to gain the summit when I did this awhile back.
I thought it was stiff for the (5.8) grade, but awesome climbing on a good feature nonetheless.
The book climb is an easy climb. The hardest part was pure psycological... taking that first step out of the book onto the sheer face 2nd pitch from the top.
The top where you go under the rock sucks. I'd not do that again if I had a choice!
I seconded the open-book route as my pal Tony led. Tony's a powerful old rugby player, and can jug-haul all day, but the cracks of the Open-Book route tested his limits. He had just left me behind at one belay station when I heard "Falling!" He'd left so recently that I'd doubted he placed any gear, so I expected him to come whizzing past me at 90 miles an hour, testing the numerous anchors he'd set for me. Luckily he didn't, and later I was reminded of why I climb with him. When he fell, he knew he was at a crux, and had perfectly placed several pieces of pro before attempting the move. Without the stress of leading, I found the climbing easy, and we were soon at the top, or almost the top I should say. I couldn't bring myself to boulder the last summit block, and lightning was hitting surrounding peaks, so we didn't have time to mess around. We descended the rope-eater gully as fast as possible, hiked out as fast as possible, drove out as fast as possible, and still caught Hell at camp for not being back before dark.
Over the years I've done the Open Book with a couple of different finishes, the 3 variations on Feel Free and Aerie.
Great day with Kenn and Alan. The thrilling summit pitch and twin tracks pitch are truely unique. You must crawl under the house-sized summit block at one point.