Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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Created On: Feb 21, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 21, 2009


Once you reach the end of the climber's trail from Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, you will find yourself at Lunch Rock. Head right and scramble along the base of the rock until you come to a shallow, red-stained corner directly behind a huge dead pine tree. The route starts here.

Route Description

The first pitch begins on large blocks with some low 5th class scrambling until you begin hand-jamming and lie-backing a left-facing crack system. One small section of clean slab with a savior rusty piton waiting to be clipped. More pumpy lie-backing and hand-jamming very continuously to finish off with stemming up a corner to a small ledge with a pine tree on the right.
Atthecrux leading the first...
Mid-way up the 1st pitch of...

If you're interested in one pitch and a beautiful rappel, take an immediate left and scamper across decent ledge to a bolted and chained anchor. Rappelling to the deck from here will require two ropes.
Second pitch is belayed from pine tree, usually has a couple sets of slings on it. Face climb for about 40', then traverse up and left around a corner past a rusted piton on your right. You will find a semi-hanging belay under the arch. Or you can pitch it out to Lunch Ledge for a full rope length of travel.
On the next pitch, you will undercling about 30' to the left and cross over an over-hang at point of arch. Low level 5th class climbs on to Lunch Ledge, then scramble to top of Tahquitz Rock by 5.6 on your right, or 5.4 slab with bolt to your left. Take Friction Descent back to the deck.
Escaping 1st Pitch via TreeRapping from tree at top of first pitch.

Essential Gear

2 - 60m ropes if you're doing just the first pitch
gear up to 3" with an occasional spot of small tri-cams
small nuts
lots and lots of runners to reduce rope drag
consumable slings and rings in the event pitch 1 pine tree is naked
approach shoes for descent (optional)
From second pitch on...The scene from second pitch belay.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Jul 22, 2007 12:28 am - Hasn't voted

Rap off first pitch

The rap off the first pitch doesn't really require two ropes. You can rap off the west side of the rock to another tree. One more rap gets to to class 4 terrain if you want to downclimb, or you can locate a chain anchor for a third short rap.

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11 Images 23 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 1 Additions & Corrections


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