Fire Sermon, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Wasteland in general is not that large of a formation and the attempt to make new routes makes most all of them a bit contrived.  Several cross each other and Fire Sermon is no exception.  You start the first pitch to the left of where you start Wasteland.  You cross Wasteland on the fourth pitch.  Like I said, the routes on Wasteland are a bit contrived in general but of the group, Teenage Wasteland offers the best sustained moderate climbing. Fire Sermon offers two decent pitches to finish its route.

The 1st pitch stems up through a scoop which is home to the last rap for the descent (if descending with a 60m single vs 70m).  The 2nd pitch continues up to the shared belay, below the upper face, with Teenage Wasteland.  The third pitch is the best pitch at the grade (5.9) on the entire Dome.  The finish variations cross to the right of Wasteland's finish and are both 5.10 options.

Hike past Entrance Dome, following a trail up canyon on the right side of the wash up to the hill below the obvious Wasteland Dome feature to the northwest.  Avoid crossing the white washed drainage (which is for Out of Towners Dome).  Instead, follow a fainter trail up the hill.  Wasteland Dome is in between Out of Downers Dome and Entrance/Exit Domes.  The routes are all south facing. Fire Sermon trends up and left from the main tree/rope up spot, to the left of the route Wasteland.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 175’-5.9-/ As seemed to be the norm on this wall, the local guide is underestimating pitch length in general.   From the shade tree where you start the route Wasteland, traverse up and left (climb between Wasteland and the rap descent) and stem through a cool alcove above the last rap hangers pulling the bulge above.  The climbing before and after is relatively uneventful.  The alcove moves are protected by bolts. 

2^nd Pitch- 110’-5.8/ Not sure where the 5.8 climbing is.  Climb the easy slab through 4 bolts.  You are heading for the same nice ledge, between two pillars, atop the 2nd pitch of Teenage Wasteland. 

3rd Pitch- 190’-5.9+/ One of the better moderate leads in Cochise, albeit wandering at the end.  Take the right bolt line, the left is Teenage Wasteland.  Climb positive, but thoughtful, steep face climbing through 7 bolts and a few seems offering pro.  After four bolts, step left into a right leaning left facing corner.  Climb it to its top. The crux move is above that as you move right and left utilizing balance and leverage via positive holds. Climb through another seam and then bear right through massive positive features that can be slung with 240cm slings.  It is difficult to locate the pair of fixed rap hangers, but if you have climbed the route Wasteland, you would have crossed them.  You are crossing Wasteland to the right.  You are not pulling the summit headwall as you would for Wasteland and Teenage Wasteland.  MP.com calls this lead 5.10- which is fine, but it is 5.9 positive for the most part.

4^th Pitch- 160’- 5.10- or +/ You have two obvious options to finish Fire Sermon with, both offer some cool climbing for short sections.  Straight above the anchor is the 5.10+ 4^th pitch of the Roedel Route.  It is a stout overhang traverse at the grade protected by two bolts and a #.3.  Easy ground to the overhang, positive hands to clip the bolts with and then a powerful balance traverse (crux) left to the main upper face. Finish as you would for Wasteland.  The other option is to traverse easy ground, staying low, to the base of the obvious hanging dihedral finish to the northeast.  There is at least one pro bolt protecting the easy but long traverse to the base.  There are fixed rap hangers at the top of this dihedral. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Scramble northwest to the top of the formation.  Locate a pair of rap hangers.  Make a single 60m steep rap into the chimney below.  Scramble down to a slung tree.  Make another 60m single rap skiers left to a well cairned (2020) ledge.  Scramble down back east into a treed gully.  Make a short rap from one slung tree to another.  A 70m rope allows you to skip the 2^nd tree with about 10’ of easy slab downclimbing at the end.  If you are on a 60m rope, hit the 2^nd tree and make a steep rap from there down to 3^rd slung tree.  A 70m gets you all the way down from there or if on a 60m, stop at a fixed rap in a scoop along the way.

Essential Gear

Single 60m or 70m rope.  Several 120cm slings to sling features near the end of the 3rd pitch.  A small selection of gear for the 3rd pitch and either finish option.  Nothing larger than #1.  Shoulder length slings.  This wall is south facing and receives full day sun.