First time in Chamonix

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Trip Report
France, Europe
Date Climbed/Hiked:
May 1, 2009
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First time in Chamonix
Created On: May 5, 2009
Last Edited On: May 8, 2009

Day 1: Best intro ever -> Cosmique Arete

The Aiguille du Midi cable carThe Aiguille du Midi cable car

Dan and I drove down to Chamonix Thursday afternoon. There was pretty bad traffic from Munich to Bregenz, it seemed to take double the time through that stretch! So we didn't arrive at the Vagabond hotel until around midnight. The place was quiet and we fell right asleep.

From the Aiguille du MidiFrom the Aiguille du Midi

Steeper snowSteeper snow

First rock stepFirst rock step

The next morning there was a bold blue sky. I just had to go out! I tried to wake Dan up, but he was recovering from a cold and needed rest. Gathering an ice tool, crampons, harness, helmet and rope, I chomped down some breakfast and walked to the Aiguille du Midi lift station. I gave them a lot of money and headed up. My plan was to descend from the lift station a few hundred meters and climb the Cosmique Arete, taking me back to the lift station. It's described as an easy day climb, though very famous. Hopefully in the spring it's not so crowded as in the summer.

The ride up the lift was amazing, and the many viewing platforms on the Aiguille du Midi offered incredible views. Finally I was seeing all these famous mountains I'd read about. The Dent du Geant seemed to occupy a singular position. I can't help but think of that tower as the heart of the range. I walked down the famous steep snow ridge among a collection of skiers. I guess it's been tamed a little bit. There were rope guardrails and even a switchback on the Chamonix side of the ridge to make the descent less steep.

Skiers at the Cosmique CouloirSkiers at the Cosmique Couloir

A rappel on the Cosmique AreteA rappel on the Cosmique Arete

The Aiguille du MidiThe Aiguille du Midi

Down in the basin below the Aiguille, I began a very slow post-holing journey over to the Cosmiques Hut. Eventually I hooked up with some boot tracks which made the trip easier. I went in and made a reservation for Saturday night, then went back out and started up the Arete. With crampons, I followed some tracks easily up the snowy ridge, eventually coming to a couple of "moves" that awakened the climbing spirit. First a little icy gully, then some moves on warm, golden rock that had those beloved features of granite like solid flakes to grab and a hand-sized horizontal crack. I knew there was a party ahead of me, because I saw them looking at me down on the post-hole fields. But I was surprised to have caught up with them so quickly. They were rappelling a steep section of the ridge. Once they pulled their rope I got mine out and followed behind for two rappels. The second one was very steep and I don't know how I'd reverse it if I had to go back! A walk around a corner and I had a magnificent ledge to stand on while the group ahead negotiated the next tricky spot.

Steep traversesSteep traverses

Looking down to numerous partiesLooking down to numerous parties

They were two French guides along with two beginners from Afghanistan who were themselves training to be guides! They were from the north of that country, and told me it was a safe place to visit with incredible mountain scenery. The group was very nice and arranged to let me pass by after about 10 minutes of waiting. Another party of two had come up behind me and we exchanged hellos.

The crux rock movesThe crux rock moves

Passing by was awkward though! First a little mixed step with a good undercling hold on granite to make up for slippery feet, then going around a corner for a steep down-then-up traverse on a narrow snow ledge. I hurried a bit to clear the way for the group, then had a choice of three passages. I chose one to the right which went around a tower then forced me to crawl under an overhanging rock. It was a little creepy escaping from that crawl, as I had to get my feet in secure snow below a rocky buttress without falling out of the cave prematurely (the handholds inside were nothing to write home about).

Now steep snow traverses and then a mixed gully got me to a bit of walking terrain. I front-pointed down from a prominent notch, and was soon at the crux of the climb: a smooth granite slab divided by a very nice finger crack. A little bit intimidated, and wondering how I was going to climb it, I let the party of two right behind me pass ahead. They belayed a pitch and were soon out of the way, though clearly climbing this crack in crampons was not easy. I decided I had to belay the first 5 meter step, then could revert to soloing. There was an excellent fixed nut to serve as an anchor, then a bolt at the end of the crux step. I tied the rope in and gave myself 5 meters of slack. I got my fingers in the crack and looked for a nubbin for my crampons on the face. I laughed when I found a divot that appeared custom made for two crampon front points. Hmm, I think that is man-made. On a route that sees so much traffic, I guess something like that will happen. I was happy to use it. A couple of interesting moves, and I was on a ledge with a bolt. I abseiled down and re-climbed the step, which now felt much easier.

I put the rope away and climbed enjoyable sun-warmed rock around to the right, then traversed a snow ledge on the cold Chamonix side of the ridge and waited for the party of two to finish another mixed step. This one looked soloable, so I went up, eventually getting my right foot in good ice, right tool in a crack, left hand on rock and left foot scraping uselessly. No matter, I could pull up to a better position, and soon made it into a shallow gully with good snow and ice for feet. The next 30 meters were really enjoyable, climbing this gully. Now I could see the viewing platform with people watching me and taking pictures. "Oh great," I thought. I traversed the cold side of the ridge, and right near the end I found (for me) the scariest part of the climb. The easiest way to get off was to traverse about 6 feet of vertical snow piled at the base of a smooth slab, then climb easily up to the crest and the end. But I had a bad feeling about that pile of snow, and indeed, on testing with a foot I sank endlessly. Suddenly the view down to town didn't seem so hot! Happily,
I never let go of a flake that kept me anchored to an upper ledge. Some difficult-feeling moves got my feet on the upper ledge, and hands pawing for jams near my feet in a snowy crack. Some inelegant thrutching got me to more secure terrain, and then the ridge top.

Looking back on the AreteLooking back on the Arete at half-height

Looking down the areteLooking down the Arete from the top

At that point I felt kind of proud. I looked to the watching crowd for a standing ovation, but actually the first crowd had gotten bored of my gyrations and been replaced by a new crowd, already growing dull-eyed at my relatively static performance. Bitterly, I climbed the narrow ladder to the viewing platform!

What a fantastic introduction to Chamonix! I headed quickly down, beginning to nurse a headache. Back in town, Dan was out and about (he later said he slept until 1), and I went out for some food. A woman who ran a bookstore gave me some Advil for my (now throbbing) headache. What a nice lady! The pharmacies were closed because it was Labor Day.

A fine mixed pitchA fine mixed pitch

The platformThe platform

The upper part of the Cosmique Arete.The upper part of the Cosmique Arete.

Climbers on the AreteClimbers on the Cosmique Arete

After some lunch on a terrace, looking back up at Mont Blanc, I went back into the bookstore, hoping to find something to buy in order to repay the gift of Advil. Who walked in but my old friend Silas Wild! What a small world! He was here with two friends to ski the Vallee Blanche. They'd done that from the Italian side, and now were stuck overnight in Chamonix because no bus was running today. They were escaping bad weather further east in the Dolomites.

Dinner in townDinner in town

Later we all hooked up for a great dinner, talking endlessly about mountains and plans.

However, back at the Vagabond, it was party night, and the room shook with techno bass until 2 am. Alas...

Day 2: some of the Triangle

The Triangle du TaculThe Triangle du Tacul

Dan on the Contamine-GrisolleDan on the Contamine-Grisolle (p1)

The next day, Dan and I headed up with ski and climbing gear. Our packs felt really heavy! We skied over to the Triangle du Tacul, me realizing from the steeper parts of the descent from the lift that I would not enjoy skiing the Vallee Blanche with such a heavy pack. We planned to climb the Contamine-Mazeaud (II, AD+) route, but there had been a big avalanche the evening before on the Mont Blanc du Tacul glacier on the right, and the route enters a kind of snow bowl halfway up. Also, no one was doing the route...what did they know that we didn't? So instead we chose a slightly easier route, the Contamine-Grisolle (II, AD), around to the left.

Dan led a pitch from the bergschrund up snow then bare ice for about 100 meters to an ice screw belay. Really nice, easy alpine ice. Then I went up first ice then snow along the left side of a rock ridge, belaying from an anchor in rock at 60 meters. Dan led a very similar pitch, then I headed up to an interesting move in a gunsight notch. A little overhang of rock pinched against a wall, and I made several mixed tool placements to get over it. That was really fun, and soon I was belaying from a rappel anchor above the step.

Steep snow on the Triangle du TucalDan on the Contamine-Grisolle (p2)

Dan came up and looked around to the right, where some tracks went. That way would have had us traversing across the great snow bowl. Doable but not part of the route. I thought instead the way up was to go through a shallow gully on our left. Dan came back down and headed over there. It was a very interesting pitch for him, with a real sense of the unknown. He would yard up on a flake, set his crampon points, and then hope he could do it again, because down-climbing didn't seem like a good option at all. However, he got excellent protection in the gully: either solid ice screws in the runnels or a good nut or cam in a crack.

Going higherGoing higher (p3)

Looking across the Triangle.Looking across the Triangle.

I came up and climbed through another 20 feet of interesting terrain with somewhat rotten ice but big flakes and hand-jams to make up for it. Above, steep snow led to another rappel anchor, and a fantastic view on the ridge crest out to the north. Alarmingly, clouds had boiled up and were climbing over the Cosmique Arete, eventually obscuring the Aiguille du Midi too. Dan arrived and we talked about retreating. The climbing looked easier for quite awhile, though there would be another (supposedly easier) rock buttress at the end. The mixed climbing took a long time. It was 3 pm. We would be descending the Glacier du Tacul in thick clouds, but it has numerous seracs, and just avalanched as well. Also we'd seen no tracks on it. The post-holing would be severe. Dinner is served at 6 in the Hut. I estimated we'd be down at 8 pm.

The Aiguille du MidiThe Aiguille du Midi

Descending the routeDescending the route

So, we decided to retreat. It had been fun, instructive climbing. We made a total of 8 rappels, the lower three from Ablakov anchors. Interestingly for me, I have built very few Ablakov anchors in my time, and Dan is more experienced. He gave me some tips which helped, like setting a "guide screw" in the first hole to help you correctly drill the second hole. By my second Ablakov, I felt like I'd learned to be more efficient. Still, I dropped an ice screw while I fumbled around for knife, cordage, gloves, etc. On the last rappel, Dan could retrieve it.

We skied across the glacier and up to the hut. Again, I had a pounding headache. More aspirin, lots and lots of tea and soup, and eventually I came out of the nausea-inducing head pain. I could barely talk to our German table-mates, and only ate token amounts of food. By dessert though, I was feeling back to normal and ate the whole piece of cake.

Sunset was so beautiful with a mix of clouds and pink/golden rays. Based on how the altitude had affected me, and feeling a bit tired from two active days, I decided I'd be content to ski the Vallee Blanche, and scrap plans to climb the North Face of the Tour Ronde as well. That was okay with Dan, as skiing the Vallee Blanche was something he really looked forward to.

Mont Blanc du TaculMont Blanc du Tacul showing the avalanche

The Grandes JorassesThe Grandes Jorasses

Clouds enfolding the rangeClouds encroaching on the glacier

Sunset on Mont BlancSunset on Mont Blanc

Day 3: skiing

Skiing the Vallee BlacheBeginning the Vallee Blanche

In the morning, we went back up to the lift and I took down a heavy pack of technical gear. An hour later I was back and we skied away to the south. We stopped often to look up and name the walls around us. I can't get across how numerous and exciting the route choices here are. Things are very compact, but the killer is the incredible vertical relief. We looked at the Gervusutti and Jager couloirs, promising to come back for climbs.

Later we saw the Grande Charmoz and the Dru: what imposing towers of beautiful granite! Finally, the Tour Ronde remained visible from many points of the ski descent: coming back to climb the North Face is a must.

Mont Blanc du TaculMont Blanc du Tacul

Dan on the ski downDan on the ski down

Jumbled glacierJumbled glacier

The actual skiing on the Vallee Blanche was underwhelming. I decided it was foolish to carry down a pack on the lift: mostly, it was long schussing, with just 3-4 slopes of about 200 meters that require turning. Dan felt that the ski descent is a bit over-hyped. But, as a tour of the range, as a triptych to guide future visits it was very nice.

A long climb up stairs to the Montevers lift and train, then a long wait for the train, finally a long and slow train ride tried our patience. But re-packing for the drive home at the car was quick. We drove away to Martigny, then Zurich. Sadly I missed the last train to Munich from there (7:30 pm), so I had to stay in a hotel overnight.

The Mer de GlaceThe Mer de Glace

The Grand CharmozThe Grand Charmoz

In short, it was a great first visit to that fabled range. We didn't do anything really impressive, but we got a sense of the scale, learned some tips on lifts and camping, enjoyed some good climbing and scenic skiing. I hope in the future I can do stuff up there without getting a headache every afternoon! I guess some acclimatization should help. Thanks to Dan for a great trip!


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Viewing: 1-20 of 21

Jurgen - May 7, 2009 10:52 am - Voted 10/10

Looks.. you've had a nice introduction, good report. It's allways the same with acclimatization..You'll have few days, wich you don't want to spend on acclimatization. I allways try to climb a lower, but still interesting, route first.

Greetz, Jurgen


mvs - May 8, 2009 6:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks..

Thanks for the note Jurgen. Yep, it's a good idea. Chalk it up to first-time Cham fever :D.


darndt - May 7, 2009 5:44 pm - Voted 10/10


Michael, as always -- a great read!! Sounds like you guys had an awesome trip. Amazing photos too. I was in the Wallis on that weekend and saw Mont Blanc from afar...

Cheers from Zueri


mvs - May 8, 2009 6:03 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Wow!

Thanks Daniel, hey I was thinking about what you said about the Mont Blanc Range, how amazing it was. You were certainly right. You guys did the Rochefort Ridge, right? That is absolutely on the (way too long!) todo list!


mvs - May 8, 2009 6:08 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great Write-up...As EXPECTED!

Thanks Chief, thanks Michele! Well that nice granite did have me dreaming about the solid granite peaks outside your place. You guys put up some more routes this summer, give me an excuse :D.


Charles - May 8, 2009 9:31 am - Voted 10/10

Good trip

as always!


mvs - May 8, 2009 6:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good trip

Thanks Charles! I've discovered it's worth the drive from our neck of the woods! On the trip you can obsessively count your nuts and chisel your toothbrush :).


Charles - May 9, 2009 11:55 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Good trip

Yes it´s worth it indeed. In fact some of my friendshave driven there today whilst I had to help someone move house - you can´t win em all!


Nikman - May 8, 2009 1:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Good to hear ...

... you've been there! Your pictures and text recall my sweet memories and past experiences in the range.
The Chamonix side is already really impressive, but you can top that, going to the other (Italian Courmayeur) side. Give the area some more time and you'll love it!

kwiatek - May 8, 2009 1:58 pm - Voted 10/10


amazing photos, amazing read!


radson - May 8, 2009 3:16 pm - Voted 10/10


I'm planning on visiting in July. Your report is very very handy. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Also your photos are first class.


mvs - May 8, 2009 6:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Excellent

Hey, I'm excited for you. I'm planning to go back in mid-July too. Dent du Geant, Grand Charmoz, Frendo Spur, all of these crazy names are swirling in my head :P.


ExcitableBoy - May 8, 2009 7:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Great report!

Wish I could join you in Europe but alas my health is not good and not improving despite the $4,000 a month treatments.


mvs - May 9, 2009 4:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great report!

Hey Dan you know how *much* I'd love to have you out here for a visit! But I can wait. Keep enjoying your local mountains and best of luck with treatment.

Brad Marshall

Brad Marshall - May 9, 2009 9:33 am - Voted 10/10


Great report and very impressive photos. Looks like you had great weather and a fun time in an area so filled with climbing history. Can't wait for your next TR on this area.


mvs - May 10, 2009 4:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Thanks

Thank you Brad! Now of course I'm full of ambitious plans. I have to assemble some chickens to appease the weather gods. :p

Rob Ricks

Rob Ricks - May 10, 2009 4:16 am - Voted 10/10

Absolutely beautiful

Thanks for the great read. Fantastic shots. RR

Sebastian Hamm

Sebastian Hamm - May 10, 2009 12:28 pm - Voted 10/10


Fantastic reading as ever! Thank you Michael. In Mont Blanc range is enough to discover for your level of experience.

Greets from Bonn


amtsleiter - May 11, 2009 1:32 pm - Hasn't voted

From the Martinswand to Chamonix ...

Hi Michael!
At the Martinswand I listened to your plannings and got a idea about the excitement about this tour ... well, I guess this tour had topped it all ...


mvs - May 12, 2009 1:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: From the Martinswand to Chamonix ...

Uli my good man! Awesome to see you on summitpost! Man, that Auckenthaler Riss was so awesome, I already want to climb it again. This time you lead the cracks :D.

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