Float Like a Butterfly (Land Like A Toma

Float Like a Butterfly (Land Like A Toma

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.72970°N / 72.0314°W
Additional Information Route Type: Ice Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI4+ III
Sign the Climber's Log


From the parking area at the south end of lake willoughby head uphill directly toward the Twenty Below Zero Gully Area. Float Like a Butterfly is the massive flow around a narrow buttress to the left of Twenty Below Zero.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb thin easy ice up to a short vertical crux about 20' long. Continue for another 120' on 60 degree ice to a belay stance. WI4 200'

Pitch2 : Pick one of any number of lines up the massive flow above. Typically, there will be 60-80' of WI3/3+ up to a WI 4+/5- 50' section. 90' of easy ice above gets you to the trees. This pitch can be as easy as WI4 if you pick the right line or as hard as WI5. WI4+ 200'

Descent : Rap 200' off trees at the top and set a Vthread for another 200' rappel to the ground or walk uphill and right to the descent trail which brings you to the base of the tablets.

Essential Gear

A typical willoughby column rack of 9-10 scews will suffice however, some shorty screws should be taken to protect the initial thin sections.

Equipment for vthreading if you plan to rappel.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Luc - Mar 25, 2013 10:38 pm - Hasn't voted

First Ascent:

Bryan Becker, Peter Cole, Tad Pheffer, December 25, 1976 Change: (Land Like A Toma To: (Land Like a Tomato)

Viewing: 1-1 of 1



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.