Approach to North Face
Take the climber's trail up to Suicide Rock. When you start to approach the base of the rock, continue on side trails to the right, heading for the North face area.
Above the litter, in a right facing corner system, you will see a tree growing out of the rock 100ft above the ground, with some crack systems below and above the tree. This is the ultra-classic Flower of High Rank
Flower of High Rank
Climb up a corner system (5.6) to gain the cracks below the tree. Pumpy crack climbing (5.9) leads up to the tree. There may or may not be slings in place at the tree, where a belay can be obtained. The route can however be done in one long pitch with a 70M rope, or a 60M if the belayer is closer to the rock/route from the ground.
The Classic, arching crack that leads from the tree belay out and to the right under the roof. Climb this crack to the roof (5.9) go up and over the roof to easyer crack climbing (5.7) that leads to a flat spot and a belay spot. From the tree belay, the crack system just left of the actual route goes at 5.8
-60M or 70M rope
-Gear from 0.5 to 3 inches
-Some slings, xtra for the tree belay
Walk beyond the bushes on the top, go right over easy ledges to gain a tree on the far North side of the rock, where The Innominate II and other slab climbs are (see topo in book). Rap off this tree, or walk down a ledge to a easy 5th class crack, downclimb to ground.
In the 1970's, The Stonemasters began developing routes in Idylwild at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock in good, bold style, from the ground up. Two of them, Mike Graham and Rob Muir, tackled this beautiful line in October 1972