Successful climb trip report during the "Smoke Storm of 2018" https://gethighonaltitude.com/2018/08/19/forbidden-peak-west-ridge/
We did and east to west traverse - it was awesome! One of my favorites!
West ridge, with my baby. Incredible mountain/route. Her first: backpacking trip; ice axe/crampons usage; glacier crossing; unplanned bivy :) True alpine. Hard to beat the North Cascades for alpine ambiance...
2016-08-06 via West Ridge as part of Torment-Forbidden Traverse (Solo up and down)
09/20/2014 Climbed with Rob via the West Ridge car to car. We had a slow relaxing blue bird day. Not a cloud anywhere.
I'm a peak-bagger, so when fresh snow made the Torment-Forbidden traverse too treacherous, I looped around to scramble the easier, but still snow-covered walk-off route. Trip report.
Long climb up the west ridge with great weather!
LONG but great day.
Solo on the West Ridge. Loose on the bypass gully and less than stellar holds. Ridge itself was fun and exposed.
Climbed via the classic West Ridge. Super awesome route.
Adam and I tried it in a one day push. We got within 200m of summit via W ridge but will have to go back (for traverse?). Great route with awesome guy. great exposure!
got lost finding trail on route out and my wife was close to calling a rescue when she hadn't heard from us too late...
Great way to finish the endless summer of 2012.
Attempt with Faith. After doing the grueling approach in the rain the previous day/eve, camp & mountain were socked in the next morning. Didn't clear up until 11ish, & we both decided that would be way too late of a start. Boston Basin in beautiful, at any rate, & I plan to be back :)
I agree with Matt's statement. The route was pretty mellow but was a lot of fun. But I admit I was a bit tired when it was over. The glacier is very melted out, now it's getting to the point where the crevasses reach rock bottom. I would definitely recommend this to a friend.
Climbed the west ridge in late season. Not much snow on the approach glacier. We climbed the western most scratch gully to the west of the major snow gully due to all the snow melted out. This was class 3 and 4. Contrary to what is said below, the gully was quite nice and NOWHERE near as loose as we were told. A few cams made it easy while simul-climbing up. I never thought the climbing on the ridge itself was harder than 5.5
incredible route (east ridge) and setting. highly recommended, amazing alpine route with excellent exposure. west ridge downclimb was nice too, rapping not necessary. Labor day 2011. One party on west ridge, no one else on mountain. c2c ~14 hours
C2C. Lot's of people on the ridge unfortunately. The descent via the ledges was horrible what a pile of cat litter. Be careful with people rapping above you. Good chance you'll be dodging missiles!
Climbed the West Ridge as my first mixed snow and rock alpine climb. Nice intro. Did the North Ridge from the toe, car to car in a day with MVS.
The supposedly 4th class gully to the left of the coulior is full of a heinous amount of loose rock that many times gives the impression of being solid until you pull on it. Some very large boulders (almost car size) would move if pulled on. I would highly recommend not doing the 4th class gully. It was wet and full of steep vegetation and had very, very few options for protection. That said, we had great weather and the views are amazing. Would like to come back and try the coulior when it is in season as this peak and surroundings are absolutely gorgious. Once out of the gully things were fine, but we had started too late and were not making the fast time we had hoped after being rejected by the coulior and making slow scary progress in the gully. Flying/driving/hiking in the day prior and getting a little lost in the dark after leaving the woods the day before had worn on us and 8 AM is not an alpine start, especially in September.