Good conditions n the route. The ice in the left exit variant was solid at beginning but soft and melting at the top. I'm sure its not more than 70°.
We had bivi gear in our bags but could do the route (Plan Aig. - Midi Station) in one day.
My partner could only leave for Chamonix on Saturday morning so we arrived at the Plan d'Aiguille at 12.30pm. We climbed the rock part of the spur in very nice and warm conditions, at the end of which we used a spectacular bivy spot (7.30pm). Next morning we did not hurry, waited for the sun, and did the ice section (left of rognon) in around 3 hours.
Climbed in a day from the Plan de l'Aiguille hut (hut at 4am, base at 5:30am, top of the rock at 12pm, summit at 3pm), the rock was so dry we were in rock shoes on the whole rock.
The left of the rognon was good ice, very fun climbing the whole way. An awesome route.
Climbed in a day from Plan d'Aiguille. There was no snow on the rock section of the spur. Good conditions, nice route!
One long route - had to stop early on the first day because of a storm. Second day the ice was still surprisingly soft higher up. Ice screws did not inspire confidence...(you wouldn't want to lean back on one :-)) Went left and topped out to shouts from the Phrique staff to hurry because they were closing early due to another approaching storm...
Loads of fun, lots of variety.
Climbed with Brian Wilderspin. We got a late start and bivied at the top of the rock. I was excited climbing ice for the first time. We slept at the Trident Hut and climbed the Route Major to the top of Mont Blanc the next day.
Excellent route with team camping mer de glace. Under 7 hours including a coffee break!
Climbed with Scotty and Kostas with a bivy. Our first route in the Alps.
In perfect conditions and climbed by lunch.
Climbed it in a day with Jeroen Vels. There was no snow on the spur, the first part of the ridge was mushy snow, the rest was hard ice. Surmounted the rognon on the left, wich gave a litle 80° ice climbing at the end.
Extremely worthwile route!
Climbed it in a day with Wouter van Dijk. There was no snow on the spur, the first part of the ridge was mushy snow, the rest was hard ice. Surmounted the rognon on the left, wich gave a litle 80° ice climbing at the end.
Very worthwile route!