Góriz-coulouir NW

Page Type
Huesca, Spain, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Summer
Time Required:
A long day
F+ (Easy sup, I+)
Rock Difficulty:
Class 4

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Góriz-coulouir NW
Created On: Oct 3, 2005
Last Edited On: Apr 3, 2007


see the page of Monte Perdido for approach to Torla and Ordesa and the normal route to approach to refuge of G�riz.

Route Description

-Pradera de Ordesa (1300m) to Góriz (2185m): 3h (slope 890m)
-Góriz to Summit: 3h 40 min (slope 1090m).

The night in refuge of Góriz is very advisable (a lot of people in summer, reservation is obliged, even with some previous months to august). The camping is allowed in the area of Góriz dismanting the tent at dawn.

From Góriz we take initially the same route of Monte Perdido (with a lot of people) in North direction across some rocky terraces. We flank the great wall to left side and we enter in the little rocky valley between Cilindro and Monte Perdido following the little path in the rocks. Very soon we find a little ramp in right side to a visible col with cairns to the east (the path and the other cairns are the normal route to Mt Perdido to north). This is an important key point of the route since we turn completely of direction (this is the same route of escaleras-ridge SW of Mt Perdido). In the little col we turn again to left side for a little cornise to get the ramps of "stairs" (escaleras)
After the 2 first step-crossing (grade I and I+) we reach the wall under Punta de las Escaleras (3027m) but we don't climb this peak (it's a complementary climb if you want of a secondary three-thousand) and we follow to right (some cairns) to reach the entry to the little valley under Mt Perdido and Soum de Ramond. This is a little confused and changing place with some different options to reach the bottom of the access to couloir. Generally the best option is climb to left side and a turn to right side between the little glacier of Ramond and the lake of Arrablo (generally in july-august the ice field remain, but the winter's material is not necessary, in september the little glacier is very poor).
Under the bottom we discover the hard ramp of stones to reach in right side the little coulouir NW. Important: the orientation is NW and the chimney evident (west) is the complicated coulouir of Burra Pelayo (winter climb but complicated).
Following the ramp after a very uncomfortable section and certainly risked if presents snow or is wet, we reach a zone in which we can escape from the ramp of free stones toward the spun rocky of the right (degree I, cairns). In this ramp if other mountaineers they precede us is possible the fallen of stones that can be risked.
After the spun we reach the "shoulder" and we get the ridge (grade I) after a walk in the south side. The final ridge is easy, exposed but very wide. The summit is a great place being surrounded by mountains by all the sides except to western side that the great mass of the Mt Perdido impedes us the vision.

The descent is generally for the same route.
Alternative descend: to north side to the great terrace under the peaks Baudrimonts turning to left side to climb the Punta de las Olas (3002m) and descent to the GR-11 to col superior de Góriz and refuge. (+3h 30min from the summit of S.Ramond)

Essential Gear

Out of the season (may-june) and in winter the use of crampons and ice-axe is necessary to cross the glacier and specially in the entry of ramp-coulouir.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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ojo - Aug 24, 2011 5:24 am - Hasn't voted

weather info

Supongo que ya lo sabes.. la una nueva section en las paginas de los refugios de albergues de aragon con informacion de condiciones. Aquí tienes la pagina para Goríz. Goriz Refuge for information on current snow conditions ...jane

Rafa Bartolome

Rafa Bartolome - Aug 24, 2011 11:56 am - Hasn't voted

Re: weather info

gracias, acabo de volver de Dolomitas, no había mirado mucho. iré incorporando links de lo que me mandas

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