The two peaks of Gabieto / Gabiétou are the westernest of the peaks of 3000m of twin valleys of Ordesa and Gavarnie. Because the access is harder from the nearest Puerto de Bujaruelo / Boucharo, the most frequenteds climbs are from Ordesa or across the Breche de Roland, or even from the summit of Taillon (3144m). The two Gabieto's peaks are joined for an elegant ridge without great difficulties (rock climb of F) and generally are climbed in the same day.
The two peaks:
-Gabieto Occidental (West, 3034m)
, really the main summit.
-Gabieto Oriental (East, 3031m)
, from the Taillon and from the col of Gabietos it seem the highest and even the first mountaineers thanked were on the main summit.
As curisoity the border Spain-France goes across the col of Gabietos and the summit of Taillon and really the summits of Gabietos are completely on Spain but I consider that many routes goes in French territory and the distance is only of 400m from the summit to the border and for this reason the peaks appears as well in the mountains of this country.
First climb: the first climb was by H.Russell and C.Passet, but they climbed only the Gabieto Oriental. The first climb of Gabieto Occidental was by Brulle, before of the return of Russell to the main summit.
Getting There / Routes
Routes to Gabietos
The most usual trailheads and routes (time to summit):
1.-Gavarnie-Col de Tentes: with two posibilities:
1.1.--Across Breche de Roland-collado Blanco (F): 4h, slope: 900m.
1.2.--From the summit of Taillon (P.D.inf.): 4h 45m, slope 1100m.
2.-Pradera de Ordesa-Carriata (F): 6h, slope 1800m.
From Toulouse or Tarbes we drive in direction to Lourdes. From Lourdes, follow to Luz-St-Saveur, from there on there should be signs to Gavarnie or Gedre. There is a good asphalt road up the col de Tentes (2208m) with a parking of cars.
From Zaragoza to Huesca, excellent highway. Road N-330 to Sabiñánigo, across the tunnels of Monrepos. After Sabiñánigo you have to get road N260 north for 13 km and turn right at Biescas following the road C-138 (road signs "Ordesa"). Then you cross the Col of Cotefablo and after 24 km turn left at the crossroads marked Torla. From that point on it's only 2 km to the parking lot or 8 km to the pradera de Ordesa.
Gabieto Or. and Taillon from Gabieto Occ.
The peak is located in the natural park of Ordesa.
The National Park Regulations are the following:
- Free camping is forbidden. It's permited to vivouac or camp using a tent lower than 1.3 m/ 4 ft 3.25 in, wich would be taken down at dawn. This practice is allowed above these heights:
Ordesa area: 2.100 m (Clavijas de Soaso)
Añisclo area: 1.800 m (Fuen Blanca)
Escuaín area: 1.800 m (La Ralla)
Pineta area: 2.500 m (Balcón de Pineta / Marmoré)
- Sports aside hiking, climbing, ski-mountaineering and speleology are forbidden.
- The sale of commercial products is not allowed
- It's forbidden to swim in the rivers, streams and lakes
View from Taillon
In french side you can camp in a place far of more than 1 hour of a refuge over 2000m
See the section above for the rules about to camp in the area.
To sleep in the night you had a lot of hotels and some campings in the villages of Torla and Gavarnie.
-Ref.de Sarradets (2587m, 85 places). Tel:62924063.
-Ref.de Goriz (2190m, 100 places) Tel:974-341201.
: camping and refuge.
-Camping Río Ara
-Camping de Fenes (Bujaruelo).
-More than 10 campings in the area of Luz St Sauver, Gedre, Gavarnie: Campings65
: list of the campings of Pays Toy with webs and mails.