Gabriel Khergiani route (South Ushba)

Gabriel Khergiani route (South Ushba)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.12417°N / 42.65991°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mixed rock and snow/ice climbing
Additional Information Time Required: A few days
Additional Information Difficulty: ED (stonefall danger)
Sign the Climber's Log


From Tbilisi by car to Mestia - the main city of Svanetia (8 - 10 hours), then to the small settlment Maseri (occational car or walking). Then by clearly visible trek up to the ruins of old deserted place Gul (2-3 hours).
By the track walk up to the foot of Ushba. The starting point of climb (Gul bivouac) is located on the flat place on the right slope of gigantic morain.

Climbing history

First time this route has been climbed by Gabriel Khergiani team 12 September 1937. It took 5 days to climb this route for the fist climbers.

Route Description

From the Gul (Hunting) camp climb up by a moraine, then cross the Gul glacier above the Icefall and approach the mouth of the wide snow couluar in the foot of the South crest. By this couluar - up 300m.
Then by a system of ledges mixed with a difficult short walls 120m up (loose stones!). Then climb the short vertical wall (25m, IV+) and come to a system of ledges by which climb to a bridge under the bastion of the South-West contrforce ot the South Ridge.
By a hard icy rocks climb up (50m, IV), then by not steep rock climb to a wide ledge (Bivouac is possible).
By a smooth rocks of moderate difficulty climb under the foot of the first rock belt. A vertical wall should be passed by its left side.
Cross the wide mouth of the snow couluar (falling stones!) climb up by its left side 200m
Leaving the mouth of the couluar turn to the left and by icy smooth rocks climb to a Southern crest. Camp is to be here on the wide (2-3m) basement of the crest.
By the crest 300m up to the foot of bastion, then by a hard rock face (25m, IV-) up to a ledge, and by it climb to the crest again.
By the crest up under a wall of the second rock belt of South Ushba
By rock face of moderate difficulty climb to a narrow ledge (25m, III).
Keeping to the right from the overhanging rocks climb up by a system of cracks (very hard climbing, rock is covered by thin ice) to a mouth of a steep ice couluar (100m, V-VI, aid climbing).
By this couluar 100m up, then to the right and by icy rocks (III - IV) climb the lower part of the narrow summit crest of Southern Ushba.
By this crest 500-600m (snow carnices!!) sometimes by easy rocks and sometimes by snow climb the Summit South Ushba. On the Summit there can be a carnice hanging to the direction of the Saddle.
Descent by a route through "Maseri Tooth "

Essential Gear

The route is not equipped. Ropes, crampones, two technical ice axes,
snow stakes, 10-15 pitons, hummers, bolts and drills, two-three
icescrews. Do not forget to bring some loops you will leave on the
rocks while abseiling down. Small tent for the intermediate camp.
Camping gear and stores for 3-4 days climb.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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