Late start from Furka Pass but only two other teams in the route, all rapelling via the route afterwards. Abseiling from P.3252m is also possible & steeper & less rope problems (which we had as well as the other team); sketch available at the Sidelenhütte.
When rappelling across the route keep in mind you have to traverse slightly to the east at the (bottom) last two...three pitches!
Access of the first stance from the glacier starts out of a snow bridge in the bergschrund; there is a fixed friend plus one bolt to support change of shoes etc.
Some meters to the right the snow directly led to the rock but ascent here looked far less promising.
Liked very much the last two pitches in the great dihedral. Great rock, great line, wonderful scenery!
I agree with Roy and Bart. We made an ascent in October. Be sure to rope up on the glacier because there are some crevasses. The climb was very enjoyable and easy to find. We rappeled down the route which was ok, although our rope get stuck once.
First climb of the summer; nice way to start the holiday.
Awesome route in perfect granite! Climbed during the alpine instructor course of the dutch alpine association