Galenstock Climber's Log

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il.rocciatore - Jul 18, 2017 6:16 am

Route Climbed: SE Spur Date Climbed: july 2017  Sucess!

Very nice route and unknown to me only until staying in the Sidelenütte a few nights before our climb. We came back a few days later and climbed the SE Spur. Besides the entry couloir, very good rock. The higher you climb, the better it gets. Descent via abseil piste back to the Sidelenhütte.

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Dec 13, 2012 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2004

From Albert Heim Hutte  Sucess!

Very dry glacier with several crevasses, beautiful peak!

[X] Bird

[X] Bird - Sep 14, 2011 7:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011

SE-Spur  Sucess!

Did the SE-spur from the Furka pass parking. Lots of clouds during the approached, luckily the start of the climbing was just above the clouds. All in all a realy nice climb, though the decent via the Rhone gletscher is long, boring and tedious.


RoyD - Jul 10, 2010 4:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010

South-North traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the galengrat verschneidung and traversed from south to north. Perfect weather. Climbed during the alpine instructor course of the dutch alpine association.

scastelein - Aug 16, 2009 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007

SE Sporn  Sucess!

First tour after my introductionary alpine course (C1) with 3 friends. Descended to the Rhone glacier.

Bas Visscher

Bas Visscher - Aug 23, 2008 10:53 am

south-east ridge

Climbed the south spur on the galengrat. Good rock, nice day out, but because of the unstable weather we returned two pitches under the end of the route. Well bolted, good rock. Because of the melting of the glacier, there is a new pitch (V-V+) with bolts.


Leendertschwab - May 2, 2008 3:00 pm

normal route  Sucess!

Following the guide during beginners course. - Apr 29, 2008 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2008

Ski route  Sucess!

Mulidivarese has spocken for me.
Great ski route.Valerio, Giacomo e Andrea.


mulidivarese - Apr 29, 2008 3:32 am Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2008

three for a perfect one  Sucess!

From Realp in about 6 hour.
Perfect sunny day but incredible hot, without breeze untill we reached about 2900 meters on the glacers.
We skied on the left of the serracs instead the "classic ski route" which leads on the left under Tiefenstock.
Reached the top at 4 pm, the final ridge was very icy. No problems on the two slopes for the top.
We spent the night at the comfortable Albert Heim Hutte watching the sunset and the long way.
Valerio, Giacomo e Andrea


Cyrill - Nov 14, 2007 11:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004

Galenstock 3586 m

Fantastic tour to Galenstock 3586 m

my picture are here: Link to Galenstock 3586 m


Bart - Aug 15, 2007 7:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2007

SE Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the Galenstock SE ridge. It has been very well bolted but can be done in a more traditionally 'alpine' way as well and is very enjoyable as such. Plenty of oppertunities for placing good pro. Rock is of very good quality mostly and the the climbing was highly enjoyable. Descent via the north-ridge is rather awkward!


Lortnoc - Aug 1, 2007 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007

SE-pillar (sporn)  Sucess!

Climbed the Galenstock via the SE-sporn. The pillar itself consists of broken rock in the bottom part (beware of falling rocks if there are parties above) but gets better as you get higher. Some sections III but mostly easier, some sections can be scrambled with rope transport.


tommi - May 3, 2007 4:52 am Date Climbed: May 1, 2007

Normal route from Albert Heim Hut  Sucess!

Climbed with snow shoes from Albert Heim Hut. The conditions were not good, too warm and deep wet snow. At the summit we had a bad view because of a lot of clouds


Koen - Jul 23, 2006 7:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

Galengrat SE spur  Sucess!

Start from the very nice Sidelenhut. The SE spur on the Galengrat (SAC-fuhrer route 720a) has been bolted in 94 and therefore offers 'plaisir' climbing in an alpine environment. The granite feels great and the climb is at times exposed - max. difficulty is UIAA 5 (2 pitches). After about a dozen pitches we got to the end of the climb and the Galensattel. From there we continued on normal shoes/crampons to the Galenstock summit. A bit of a tedious descent via the normalroute and the Rhône Glacier. All in all a very rewarding day, but, when are those temperatures going to drop???

Mister White

Mister White - Apr 6, 2006 8:58 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2003

Route Climbed: From Belvedere Date

Second attempt to climb this mountain, after the first had failed from Albert-Heim Hutte. We camped at the south of the Furkapass, so we had a long hike even before we could start. This resulted in an reaching the S-grat late in the afternoon. When I also made a fall, we decided it was time to go back, just about 100 meters from the summit. We reached our camp again when it was getting dark. I will be back to climb the SE-route from Sidelen Hutte.


roadmountain - Sep 16, 2003 4:09 am

Route Climbed: normal route from Albert-Heim Hutte Date Climbed: 29 july 2003  Sucess!

Difficult to reach the summit. I reach with Walter Phister the rocks in 2 1/2 hours. From here I was very heavy.. We reached the summit in 6 hours! But my condition was not optimal.. A wonderful sight like a year before on the Morgenhorn was not giving to me this year... clouds were all around us! but it's a beatiful mountain!!!

Mathias Zehring

Mathias Zehring - Feb 9, 2002 12:22 am

Route Climbed: From Belvedere Date Climbed: June 5th 1993  Sucess!

2nd day of openig of the Furka Pass road after winter closing. Over 100 swiss climbers had had the same idea so that you "could pass a bottle of beer to the summit". But nevertheless it was a very impressive ski tour. Not easy because of steep slopes and hard snow!

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