Page Type
Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Snow/Ice Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Created On: Jan 11, 2002
Last Edited On: Jan 11, 2002


Stay over night at the Fründen hut (2562 m). Descent via normal route.

Route Description

From the Fründen hut cross the Fründenglacier and reach the ridge that borders the west side of this glacier. Fixed ropes
lead to the ridge that heads south and is named Galletgrat. Follow the ridge without difficulty. At 3300 m a tower blocks your
way, that can be left on your left by climbing above the couloir with the help of fixed artificial items until you reach the back of
the tower.

A wide snow ridge leads to the east ridge at point 3430m. Now begins one of the most scenic snow or ice ridges of the Bernese Oberland. Keep well inside the cornice!. This part can be easy (snow) or quite difficult (ice). Ask the guardian of Fründen hut about the condition. The chance of having ice is greater in September than in July.

6 hours or more to the Doldenhorn from the Fründen hut.

J. Gallet climbed this ridge first on 19th July 1899 with two local guides.

Essential Gear

Rope, one axe, crampons

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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