Gargoyle, 5.10a

3rd Pitch- 50m- 5.10a/ This is the crux pitch on Gargoyle. The crux of the entire route is really just one or two moves. Right from the belay, head up and place a .5”. There is a pin I would not trust in the hand rail to the left. Instead, gain one more position and place a fairly bomber 1” piece. Than make a bold move on suspect rock to move up and left to truly gain the hand rail and be in it for the traverse. From there you will find decent feet on solid rock to assist with the nice hand rail to move out left and eventually break up through the left end of the roof via a short corner. Then trend up left to a ramp. Follow this ramp with just one piece of gear over 20m on 5.8 ground to the top of a pillar. Down climb and set up with small gear behind the pillar (not a great belay).
Gargoyle, 5.10a, 14 Pitches, Mount Louis, Banff National Park, July, 2010


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