Strenuous ascent in extreme weather conditions. Left C3 at 10pm in heavy snow and extreme cold. Weavering in and out of the normal route in total white out. Got lost a few times but made it to the summit in a grueling 14hrs push in deep snow. Got avalanched near the saddle but was spared by sheer miracle. Awesome view of China and Pakistani ranges.
After 2 attempts this summer, Alexey Bolotov and I reached the summit via Japanese Couloir/West Ridge variant, along with Marty Schmidt, Libor Uher and Radek Jaros. Climbed in one push from Camp 2 (6400m)- no ropes, O2, carrying one tent, etc... Nice climbing on surprisingly steep terrain, very deep snow w/ dangerous snow conditions near summit. Third Canuck ascent.
The first Romanian ascent of G1 and also the first alpine style ascent of an eight thousander by a Romanian. Alex Gavan summited at around 4,30 pm after 14 hours continuous ascent from Camp 3 at 7000m.(No supplementary oxygen used, no sherpa support). On summit day we've made a variant of the Japanese Culoir route climbing a rocky ridge on the left, due to the increased avalanche danger. Our team consisted in 4 climbers, all reaching the summit, in this order, within 30 minutes between the first and the last: Pawel Mihalski (Polonia, he also climbed Cho Oyu), Mehdi Efetihmar (Iran, first Iranian ascent of Gasherbrum 1; he also climbed Dhaulagiri), Jordi Jill (Spania), Alex Gavan (Romania). The official expedition page, dispatches, photos and the summit video can be foud at http://gasherbrum.cloudclimbing.ro/