Generosity, 5.9, 13 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Generosity is a modification of Free Fall, put in to the right of Eeyore’s Tail. In 1998, the original ascentors of Free Fall suffered an epic 30m lead fall which forced a retreat (and thus the name). According to the guidebook, Free Fall was never really completed, but named? In fact Chris Perry and/or Joe Josephson referred to the original ascentors, Dumarac, Wolfe and Norrie as “strangely reticent” about the line.

Recently someone reworked Free Fall, putting in bolted (2008) stations and floating a handwritten topo out there. My partners for this climb had a major accident several years ago on Free Fall, getting off route on the Guide's Route and thus over into this line sucked in by some bolts supposedly. One took a lead fall and broke several bones, thus having to be airlifted off the wall. They asked me to participate in returning to the scene of the crime.

Generosity is not overly sustained and the quality of the rocks is fairly decent comparatively (I did move a massive block at the top of pitch 3). I led the three 5.9 pitches and thought they all were quite tame. The third 5.9 pitch, pitch 11, is perhaps the most sustained of the three. One of the more interesting pitches was the 9th pitch, a 5.8 exposed traverse into a long chimney. There are water runnels on both the 10th and 11th pitches that made for pretty cool climbing. All in all the ground of Generosity makes for fast climbing for experienced/competent climbers.

From the reservoir parking area directly across from EEOR, gain a trail slightly to the south and ascend steep ground northwest via switchbacks (this trail starts up right behind a large boulder). As you get closer to the south end wall, you will hook into a trail that runs along the base of EEOR. Continue north along the trail past the 100+/- meter pinnacle at the base of Reprobate immediately below the upper dihedral. Continue circumventing the wall until you reach a shallow cave of sorts butting east. There are several singular trees here. The first pitch starts out climbing the easy angled toe of the buttress left to right, then back left.

Route Description

1300’+/-, 13 Pitches, 5.9

1st Pitch- 55m- 5.6/ Hop onto the toe of the buttress just to the right of the cave like feature and two trees. Angle right on easy ground and then through an open chimney angling back left. Pass the first alternate anchors, keeping left up solid rock to the next belay a full ropes length up from the ground.

2nd Pitch- 45m- 5.7/ Climb up through another open chimney feature of sorts on easy ground, angling left out of it on good rock up to scree-covered ledges to the next bolted belay.

3rd Pitch- 55m- 5.7/ This is a fun pitch. Climb up left past a bolt, then follow the corner above, moving out left below the yellow roof, then angle back right up a groove, past a bolt, moving right to another bolted belay.

4th Pitch- 40m- 5.8/ Climb up the chimney directly above with the grade move early. Move left past a bolt at the top to your next bolted station.

5th Pitch- 40m- 5.6/ Angle left on easy ground until under several large roofs with a corner to the left.

6th Pitch- 40m- 5.9/ It could be said this pitch has the most difficult move of the day, located at the last bolt before the station. Head up and left to a bolt. Cross several corners leftward and then head straight up to overcome a large roof to the left, but stay directly under another roof. After passing three bolts on decent rock, move right (don’t get sucked left) from underneath a chossy roof and clip a bolt with both ropes if bringing up two 2nds. Look for a good right foot and then make a balancing move with little in the way of hands to overcome a slab section. Traverse right to the bolted station.

7th Pitch- 40m- 5.6/ Run up easy ground to a large ledge above.

8th Pitch- 50m- 5.9/ This can be the most difficult pitch regarding route finding. Several corners exist above. You are heading to just below a wide and deep chimney up and right. The most obvious line with good rock leads up and left via a solid ramp at the end. This is not the route and you would be forced to down climb to get to the bolted station if you went this more desirable way. Rather run up good rock to the base of a relatively loose yellowish corner directly above the belay. Climb it to the top and move right to the station which is left of the large chimney.

9th Pitch- 50m- 5.8/ One of the more interesting pitches of the day. Traverse right and place a bomber 2” in before making a committing and exposed traverse into the base of the chimney. As the crack widens, utilize true chimney technique to ascend the most difficult section of the chimney. As it continues to deepen, the climbing gets easier. Move out of the chimney past two bolts to the left and angle up easy ground to the next ledge and station left of some cool water runnels.

10th Pitch- 50m- 5.7/ Move out to the right and climb these really cool water runnels. They are so deep, you can actually place gear in them. They still sunk a bolt for you about ¾ of the way up the runnels. Once at the top of this section on a narrow ledge, traverse right along the ledge clipping several bolts until at the bolted station below the arête.

11th Pitch- 60m- 5.9/ This is no doubt the most sustained pitch of the climb. Avoid the chimney to the left as well as the arête direct. Instead climb right of the arête to avoid bad rock. Place gear at will, looking to move back left over and onto the arête via an exposed move or two. Above will be really solid rock and more of those deep water runnels through 5 bolts. A sustained pitch, but solid feet and hands the whole way.

12th Pitch- 50m- 5.6/ The “Guides Route” intersects at this belay. Supposedly this is the crux pitch of that route. Climb up left of the corner past a bolt and many pitons above, eventually moving left away from the main corner to a ledge and bolted station.

13th Pitch- 15m- 5.5/ Competent parties would solo at this point. Any number of finishes, but there is another bolted station to the left. From there scramble to the top of EEOR where of course it is quite loose as would be expected.

Climbing Sequence

II

Descent

Walk carefully along the edge on loose scree until you intersect a trail that takes you down the normal descent for the EEOR scramble and all routes that finish at the top of EEOR. You will have to walk along Spray Lakes Road to get back to your car.

Essential Gear

Tons of fixed gear on this route, so you can definitely go light on the rack if experienced. Tons of opportunity to place gear if you are not so experienced. I would not carry more than a single to 3” myself and full set of wires. Mostly shoulder slings, one or two double length. Helmets are a must on any of EEOR’s routes. Comfortable shoes, as it is a long day and the climbing is not that sustained. Whatever you bring on the approach to the wall is going up with you, so pack accordingly. Tennis shoes/approach shoes are adequate for the walk off.

External Links

• DowClimbing.Com
  EEOR
• Kananaskis Provincial Park
  trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc.
  

Images

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