Gervasutti Couloir

Page Type
Haute Savoie (Mont Blanc), France, Europe
Route Type:
50 degree Snow/Ice
Time Required:
Most of a day
D-, 670m, 5~7h (D+, Scottish 3. for left hand exit, 800m 8~9h)

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Gervasutti Couloir
Created On: Dec 19, 2001
Last Edited On: Dec 19, 2001



  • Refuges at Col de Midi (Ref Cosmiques in summer or Simond Bivouc in Winter)
  • Torino Hut

Route Description

Books: Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis
First Ascent:   13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod
Route: Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently.
Descent:  Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!)
Report: none yet

Essential Gear

No belays necessary in this grade.
if you are easily scared you probably shouldn't do this anyway.
But a screw or two and some snowstakes could help then.

Miscellaneous Info

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