Gervasutti Couloir

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.85730°N / 6.88760°E
Additional Information Route Type: 50 degree Snow/Ice
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: D-, 670m, 5~7h (D+, Scottish 3. for left hand exit, 800m 8~9h)
Sign the Climber's Log



  • Refuges at Col de Midi (Ref Cosmiques in summer or Simond Bivouc in Winter)
  • Torino Hut

Route Description

Books: Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis
First Ascent:   13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod
Route: Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently.
Descent:  Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!)
Report: none yet

Essential Gear

No belays necessary in this grade.
if you are easily scared you probably shouldn't do this anyway.
But a screw or two and some snowstakes could help then.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.