|Books:||Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes|
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis
|First Ascent:||13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod|
|Route:||Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut |
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently.
|Descent:||Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!)|