Gestola thru peak 4310

Page Type
Caucasus/Bezengi, Russia, Europe
Route Type:
Basic Snow/Glacier climb with one section of easy
Time Required:
A few days
4A (Russian Grade)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Gestola thru peak 4310
Created On: Dec 1, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 1, 2005


Starting from Bezengi Camp - descend to the foot of Bezengi glacier and by left side moraines - climb on it. Follow the central moraine before the Bezengi glacier start to turn on the left.
Cross the glacier to it's right side and climb on the moraine. Follow it looking for the small river falling from the green slopes on the right side. On the second one -
turn to it's right side and climb the slopes before the snow line. Enter snow fields and cross them to the small pass on the ridge that is always on your left side. After crossing the pass - immediatly you will face the good trail that will lead you to the bivuac site.

Route Description

R0 (camp site) -R1: At the start of the route you will face the wide glacier with crevasses on it's left side. Go around the crevasses and bypass them on the left side. Go to the foot of the North-East Rib of the 4310 peak. The end of the pitch is a first bergschrund.
R1-R2: Climb snow slope (20 degrees, 100 m) to the second berg.
R2-R3: Pass the berg. by the snow bridge and climb up the snow/ice slope (30-40 degrees, 60-80 m) almost to the crest of the icy ridge.
R3-R4: Travers the ice ridge to the rock band. (40 degree, 150 m)
R4-R5: Climb the rocks (10 m, II-III) and then climb the narrow snow/ice ridge. The huge ice drops remains on the right. (50 m, 30-40 degree), then climb snow slope that leads to the big col of the Nord-East rib of the peak 4310.
R5-R6: Cross the berg. and climb ice under the rocks (100 m, 40 degree). Small travers leads to the small ledge. Rocks are very losy. Be aware of stonefalls!!! Spacialy from the climbers who are above of you.
R6-R7: Travers rocks to the left (50-80 m) with a little rase of altitiude. Choose the easiest way. It is a lot of ladges and cracks. The danger is - the loose rocks.
R7-R8: By the small rock rib - climb to the rock ledge just before the summit (80 m, III-IV), then climb to the summit by the small snow wall (40 degree,15 m)
R8-R9: Travers wide ridge of the 4310 peak and descend to the col between the Gestola ridge and 4310. 300m. Snow and loose rocks. Bivuac on the col. There are a couple of good prepared ledges for tents around the big stone with memorials. From the bivi site 6-8 hours.
R9-10: In the morning early start will allow you to climb fast by the frozen snow slopes of the Gestola ridge. 500 m. 20 degrees.
R10-R11: Travers the narrow snow/ice ridge (150 m) and descend to the big col/platoo under the summit pyramid of the Gestola Peak (300 m).
R11-R12: Under the huge ice drops - travers 100 m and then climb the steep snow colour that leads to the top of the ice drop. (150 m, 40-50 degree, snow)
R12-Summit: The final part of the climb. By the snow covered loose rocks and snow fields - make a zig-zag progress under the final summit step. (400m, 20-30 degree). Travers to the left and find the lover part of summit cornice. Brake it and climb to the summit.

From the bivi site - 3-4 hours.

Descend by the ascend path.

Essential Gear

Gear for easy snow/ice/rock climb.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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arturf - Jun 29, 2007 11:13 am - Voted 7/10

Peak 4310

By latest information the Unnamed Peak (4310 m) is now named as Esenin's Peak (Esenin was a famous Russian poet; b. 1895 - d. 1925)

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Gestola thru peak 4310

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