That must have been scary.
Thanks for sharing, and letting us all share in learning an important lesson.
Glad you got down okay, and it sounds like your attitude about the whole trip is really super.
If you don't mind, I linked your report to mine to remind people that these peaks are high and deserve respect.
It was just over a year ago that I was on Orizaba. I spent a day in Tlachichuca and then headed to the hut. It was my first night there that I was hit with AMS. I spent the night outside sitting on a rock dry heaving with a headache of a lifetime. I never knew my head could hurt like that. An Australian overdosed me on Diamox and I felt even worse. A day later I went up to high camp at 15K and could go no higher. I was spent.
What happened to you can hit anyone at anytime. I live at 6700 and work at 8700 and felt like I was in great shape, but still got hit after a day at 14K.
You made all the right decisions in a difficult situation ... and you will still keep going back to the mountains because you love them. Well done!
Climb On!
Patrick
Phil 4:13
You know the mountains are in your blood when you can end a trip like that, with a comment like that: "People ask me after I tell them what HAPE is, “Oh my god, are you giving up climbing forever?” I simply tell them that I have never been sicker in my entire life, but the weird thing is, I have also never been happier."
Your lungs may have faltered, but your attitude never waivered a bit. Thank for sharing your story, Luke - best of luck to you on future climbs.
I couldn't agree more. There is an intoxicating feeling of working so hard for something that it makes you physically sick. I had a similar feeling on my first attempt at Orizaba in 2000. Made it to the foot of the glacier and bonked. I was so spent when I got down that I puked what little food I had in my stomach and promptly colapsed into my tent. But the feeling was so intense that I knew I would be back. I'm glad that you listened to your body and made the right decision to descend. Best of luck on your next attempt!
i don't know who took you up there (quien es el oso?), but it seems pretty clear they took you up there irresponsibly. you were barely in the country 30 hours and were already at base camp for Citlaltepetl (>14k'). you never know how altitude is going to affect you on a given day (I've been astonished to see Indians whom have never seen sea level get bad headaches at 4000M) but that is still crazy to take you up there so fast. I would always demand a leg/lung stretcher on Malinche or Xinantecatl (Nevada de Toluca) or at maybe Cerro Negro before heading straight there from the airport.
It's a good thing you guys did the right thing and got down. I didin't make it my first time either, then waited 8 years to go back. The mountian will still be there and you learn a lot from the experience!
el oso is Roberto Flores Rodriguez, owner of Orizaba Mountain Guides. I wouldn't say irresponsible, but I do agree that we should have acclimated better. As I said in the report however, I felt great at base camp. It was when we moved towards the glacier that I began to get sick.
Thanks for the comments, by the way!!
Cheers,
Luke
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I agree with Quetzalcoatl...going from New Hampshire to the hut the next day was way too fast. Even when I take clients from Colorado we don't end up at the hut until weds after arriving in country on Sat. From sea level or so its usually harder to adjust. Glad you recovered so quickly. Cheers!
I think it's your own responsibility if you think you can climb a 5700m mountain without acclimatization. I've climbed Oriziba with Oso (after two weeks accl. in the Rockies). Oso is the best guide I ever met, very carefully, responsible and nice.
Sobering trip report. I’m glad you made it down okay and still have the desire to climb. I agree with the suggestion to do an acclimation hike on La Malinche or Toluca if you go back for another try.
Not much to add to what others have said but I do admire your good judgment and not pushing a dangerous situation. Also, I agree that the acclimatization schedule was a bit rushed to put it mildly.
Put this experience in your bones, learn from and keep enjoying the big Hills. Sounds to me like you have a great future in mountaineering with this experience behind you!
Thanks for the comment Alan! Means a lot coming from an accomplished mountaineer like yourself! Ya, our acclimation schedule was very rushed as we later found out... I have definitely learned from this experience.
-Luke
EastKing - Feb 1, 2009 3:35 am - Voted 10/10
Wow!!Good thing you made it back! Great TR! Hopefully you get back there to conquer the beast!
splattski - Feb 1, 2009 9:09 am - Voted 10/10
AltitudeThat must have been scary.
Thanks for sharing, and letting us all share in learning an important lesson.
Glad you got down okay, and it sounds like your attitude about the whole trip is really super.
If you don't mind, I linked your report to mine to remind people that these peaks are high and deserve respect.
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 11:03 am - Hasn't voted
Re: AltitudeEast King, thank you for the comments! I already have plans to go back next season.
splattski, thanks for the comments, and I don't mind at all that you linked it. Orizaba is definitely a peak that demands respect..
shanrickv - Feb 1, 2009 11:11 am - Voted 10/10
Good DecisionIt was just over a year ago that I was on Orizaba. I spent a day in Tlachichuca and then headed to the hut. It was my first night there that I was hit with AMS. I spent the night outside sitting on a rock dry heaving with a headache of a lifetime. I never knew my head could hurt like that. An Australian overdosed me on Diamox and I felt even worse. A day later I went up to high camp at 15K and could go no higher. I was spent.
What happened to you can hit anyone at anytime. I live at 6700 and work at 8700 and felt like I was in great shape, but still got hit after a day at 14K.
You made all the right decisions in a difficult situation ... and you will still keep going back to the mountains because you love them. Well done!
Climb On!
Patrick
Phil 4:13
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 11:20 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good DecisionShanrickv, thank you for sharing your story. As I said in the TR, I couldn't have asked for a more beautiful place to get sick haha.
Cheers,
-Luke
susanjoypaul - Feb 1, 2009 12:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Classic LineYou know the mountains are in your blood when you can end a trip like that, with a comment like that: "People ask me after I tell them what HAPE is, “Oh my god, are you giving up climbing forever?” I simply tell them that I have never been sicker in my entire life, but the weird thing is, I have also never been happier."
Your lungs may have faltered, but your attitude never waivered a bit. Thank for sharing your story, Luke - best of luck to you on future climbs.
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 1:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Classic LineThanks for the comment Susan, glad you enjoyed the report!
bajaandy - Nov 9, 2009 2:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Classic LineI couldn't agree more. There is an intoxicating feeling of working so hard for something that it makes you physically sick. I had a similar feeling on my first attempt at Orizaba in 2000. Made it to the foot of the glacier and bonked. I was so spent when I got down that I puked what little food I had in my stomach and promptly colapsed into my tent. But the feeling was so intense that I knew I would be back. I'm glad that you listened to your body and made the right decision to descend. Best of luck on your next attempt!
JB99 - Feb 1, 2009 3:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice Report!Well written report. Thanks for sharing. Definitely a good reminder for all of us heading into the bigger hills.
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 4:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice Report!Thanks for the comments JB!
Curtissimo - Feb 1, 2009 5:10 pm - Voted 10/10
great report!thanks for sharing your story with everbody.
i don't know who took you up there (quien es el oso?), but it seems pretty clear they took you up there irresponsibly. you were barely in the country 30 hours and were already at base camp for Citlaltepetl (>14k'). you never know how altitude is going to affect you on a given day (I've been astonished to see Indians whom have never seen sea level get bad headaches at 4000M) but that is still crazy to take you up there so fast. I would always demand a leg/lung stretcher on Malinche or Xinantecatl (Nevada de Toluca) or at maybe Cerro Negro before heading straight there from the airport.
It's a good thing you guys did the right thing and got down. I didin't make it my first time either, then waited 8 years to go back. The mountian will still be there and you learn a lot from the experience!
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 6:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: great report!el oso is Roberto Flores Rodriguez, owner of Orizaba Mountain Guides. I wouldn't say irresponsible, but I do agree that we should have acclimated better. As I said in the report however, I felt great at base camp. It was when we moved towards the glacier that I began to get sick.
Thanks for the comments, by the way!!
Cheers,
Luke
Haliku - Feb 1, 2009 10:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: great report!Thanks for sharing your experiences. I agree with Quetzalcoatl...going from New Hampshire to the hut the next day was way too fast. Even when I take clients from Colorado we don't end up at the hut until weds after arriving in country on Sat. From sea level or so its usually harder to adjust. Glad you recovered so quickly. Cheers!
ferdinandverboom - Feb 3, 2009 11:09 am - Hasn't voted
Re: great report!I think it's your own responsibility if you think you can climb a 5700m mountain without acclimatization. I've climbed Oriziba with Oso (after two weeks accl. in the Rockies). Oso is the best guide I ever met, very carefully, responsible and nice.
Athos791 - Feb 3, 2009 7:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: great report!I agree completely! Oso was a very nice guy, and obviously a very experienced guide.
MountainHikerCO - Feb 1, 2009 6:12 pm - Voted 10/10
SoberingSobering trip report. I’m glad you made it down okay and still have the desire to climb. I agree with the suggestion to do an acclimation hike on La Malinche or Toluca if you go back for another try.
Athos791 - Feb 1, 2009 6:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SoberingThanks for the comment MountainHiker. I have plans to do Malinche and Izta before going to Orizaba next season!
Athos791 - Feb 2, 2009 2:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great Attitude.Definitely learned a lot! Thanks for the comments.
Alan Arnette - Feb 2, 2009 6:45 pm - Voted 10/10
Good CallNot much to add to what others have said but I do admire your good judgment and not pushing a dangerous situation. Also, I agree that the acclimatization schedule was a bit rushed to put it mildly.
Put this experience in your bones, learn from and keep enjoying the big Hills. Sounds to me like you have a great future in mountaineering with this experience behind you!
Climb On!
Alan
Athos791 - Feb 2, 2009 7:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Good CallThanks for the comment Alan! Means a lot coming from an accomplished mountaineer like yourself! Ya, our acclimation schedule was very rushed as we later found out... I have definitely learned from this experience.
-Luke