Gift of the Wind Gods, 5.10d

7th Pitch- 160’- 5.10d/ This traverse did not feel like 5.10d (Handren’s guide) to me and Joanne Urioste does not have it marked at that grade either (5.10 in her notes). The edges were quite positive the whole pitch. Traverse out right following a line of bolts (ignoring one lone bolt up high/off-route). The first two are bad bolts/hangers. I brought two screamers and used them on these bolts. But the climbing through them was 5.9 at most. The third bolt was much better (3/8th, not rusted). Continue up and right on positive edges through good rock and several more fixed pieces, some decent, some not. Eventually you reach a crack with a solid C4 #.75 pod. I placed another small cam up on this crack and actually skipped the rusted bolts/hangers along this seam. Move right into the large crack and continue up easy ground to a comfortable ledge with a fixed belay below a wide crack/chimney.
Gift of the Wind Gods, 5.10d, Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson, Red Rock NCA, April, 2013


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PanamaRed - Apr 29, 2013 4:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Awesome picture!

This looks like a very cool route. 5:10d is a bit above my climbing level at the moment, but maybe someday I'll make it up something this hard. That traverse looks pretty dicey!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 1, 2013 1:58 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Awesome picture!

thank wasn't too bad...rr grades are a bit soft and this traverse was no exception...climb is worthy of doing for sure...if for its position high on Wilson if nothing else...cheers

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