Gilligan’s Island, 5.4-5.10d

Gilligan’s Island, 5.4-5.10d

Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 34.05725°N / 116.17808°W
Activities: Trad Climbing
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter


Hit It Ethel-  5.8
Hit It Ethel- 5.8

Gilligan’s Island is located off of Boy Scout Trail at the entrance to Wonderland North in Joshua Tree National Park. Gilligan’s is comprised of two significant walls (Mary Anne’s Face and Ginger’s Face) and a much smaller feature named Gilligan’s Island Boulder. All three offer worthy moderate crack climbs. Gilligan’s Island Boulder has my favorite trad climb of this group, River Phoenix (5.9), a thought provoking finger crack line. Ginger’s Face (the left face) has two of the better moderates after that: As the Wind Blows (5.7+) and Through the Looking Glass (5.9). Gilligan’s Island was first worked in 1988 by Jack Marshall and company. Most of the climbs are south facing and offer a warm winter destination usually void of other climbers.

Park at the Boy Scout Trail trailhead and hike approximately one mile to the T intersection. Turn left and Gilligan’s Island comes into view. Hike another .2 miles to the base of the walls. Mary Anne’s face is on the left, Ginger’s Face is on the right and Gilligan’s Island Boulder is to the lower right of Ginger’s Face.

Route Description(s)

River Phoenix-  5.9
Lovely, aka Whale of a Time-  5.8
Mary Anne’s Face

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Walls
Ginger’s Face
  • Ginger’s Crack- 5.10d/*

  • Through the Looking Glass- 5.9/*
  • Mirrors "Hit it Ethel" on the right wall. Up a short crack to bolted slab. More of a slab climb then a crack climb. Slung fixed rap up and left. Dow

  • Gun for the Sun- 5.10a/*

  • As the Wind Blows- 5.7+/*
  • This is a decent trad pitch by Jtree standards and for the grade. Over 100' up an obvious corner. Rap Through the Looking Glass. Dow

  • Mary Anne or Ginger?- 5.10a/*

  • Mary Anne’s Face
  • Northwest Passage- 5.10a/*

  • Ape Man Hop- 5.10a/*

  • Route 66- 5.4/*

  • Hit It Ethel- 5.8/*
  • This pitch pretty much mirrors "Through the Looking Glass" on the left wall. Fun and short crack leads to an easy traverse and slab through bolts to finish. Decent length, over 100'. Single bolt rap hanger at the top to the left. Dow

    Gilligan’s Island Boulder
  • River Phoenix- 5.9/*
  • My favorite of the group and definitely the most challenging. Small intricate gear placements up steep intermittent finger cracks with a few hand jams when you need them. The pitch is short. Walk off right. Dow

  • Roomis E. Gloomis- 5.10d/*

  • Lovely, aka Whale of a Time- 5.8/*
  • Least desirable of the group as well as the least challenging for the grade. One bolt protects a fun mantle move off the deck, then an easy crack leads to an easy face. Walk off right. Dow

  • Three-Hour Tour- 5.8/

  • Teddy- 5.9/
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites

  • Related