theREALCarpeDM - Sep 4, 2018 11:23 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2018
Standard route
The weather forecast turned a bit iffy, and since Ruth and I were now staying in Ridgway, I tabled the Ice Lakes basin peaks and decided to do shorter, closer bicents Gilpin and Emma.
I hit the ridge near a grassy area to the left of the saddle. From there, stick to the ridge! I didn't (entirely). After a small tower - bypassed easily on the right - I somehow decided to not stick strictly to the ridge. It got loose! Made my way as quickly as I could to the ridge, where it got much better! From the top of the NASTY couloir (great for a snow climb!), it was easy going.
seano - May 2, 2017 11:32 am Date Climbed: May 1, 2017
North couloir
Mostly a slog in fresh powder, with a bit of desperation kicking steps near the top. Trip report.
2nd attempt successful with Ben Potter in Chaco sandals.
pinto - Oct 31, 2012 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Gotta go back
Attempted the east face but got turned back by some extremely rotten rock I wasn't expecting. Well, more appropriately, wasn't prepared for. I should have been expecting it.
Sarah Simon - Aug 5, 2012 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012
North Couloir of Hideousness
I would love to write about how much I enjoyed his ascent, but without snow, the North Couloir is just absurd! Steep, loose misery. Really enjoyed he summit ridge, though, and the views from the summit are outstanding. In particular, Sneffels and Dallas were incredible!
Liba Kopeckova - Jun 14, 2011 11:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2011
great day!
ski via northwest ridge with Michael Covington. The ridge was free of snow, only the couloir had tons of snow. Did not need crampons - the snow was soft, but it was pretty steep, at least 45 degrees.
NW Ridge with Prakash, Jamie and Jon. The ridge was easy, but getting there involved some nasty loose scree/talus. There is a useful climbers trail through parts of it though, definitely worth locating! Also went up Sneffels later in the day.
dakotaconcrete - Jun 3, 2009 1:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009
Northwest Ridge Route
Began our trip from nearly 11,000ft. Overtaking blue lakes pass proved extrememly difficult due to its large corniced eastern flank. Turned around atop the pass after seeing several more very large cornices blocking our path via the main ridge to reach to the summit. All in all, disappointing but made for a great morning in a beautiful location.
Started at the famous toilet in Yankee Boy Basin after an early fall snowstorm. Climbed up a horribly loose scree slope covered with a bunch of new snow (a total nightmare) to gain the NW ridge. Easy from there to the summit. Incredibly beautiful views, especially with the new blanket of snow. Also climbed Cirque Mountain before heading back. Kept in touch with my friend via radio as she climbed Sneffels - kind of fun.
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2005
I climbed Gilpin with Erin on a beautiful morning in the Sneffels Range. I'm glad we picked a short climb because the thunderstorms were ready to start before noon. The scree was a pain at times, but it wasn't that bad. The wildflowers were absolutely brilliant! A trip report is available here.
theREALCarpeDM - Sep 4, 2018 11:23 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2018
Standard routeThe weather forecast turned a bit iffy, and since Ruth and I were now staying in Ridgway, I tabled the Ice Lakes basin peaks and decided to do shorter, closer bicents Gilpin and Emma.
I hit the ridge near a grassy area to the left of the saddle. From there, stick to the ridge! I didn't (entirely). After a small tower - bypassed easily on the right - I somehow decided to not stick strictly to the ridge. It got loose! Made my way as quickly as I could to the ridge, where it got much better! From the top of the NASTY couloir (great for a snow climb!), it was easy going.
seano - May 2, 2017 11:32 am Date Climbed: May 1, 2017
North couloirMostly a slog in fresh powder, with a bit of desperation kicking steps near the top. Trip report.
seth@LOKI - Jul 7, 2015 10:53 pm
Ben Potter Chaco Climber?2nd attempt successful with Ben Potter in Chaco sandals.
pinto - Oct 31, 2012 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Gotta go backAttempted the east face but got turned back by some extremely rotten rock I wasn't expecting. Well, more appropriately, wasn't prepared for. I should have been expecting it.
Sarah Simon - Aug 5, 2012 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012
North Couloir of HideousnessI would love to write about how much I enjoyed his ascent, but without snow, the North Couloir is just absurd! Steep, loose misery. Really enjoyed he summit ridge, though, and the views from the summit are outstanding. In particular, Sneffels and Dallas were incredible!
Liba Kopeckova - Jun 14, 2011 11:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2011
great day!ski via northwest ridge with Michael Covington. The ridge was free of snow, only the couloir had tons of snow. Did not need crampons - the snow was soft, but it was pretty steep, at least 45 degrees.
chicagotransplant - Jul 6, 2009 10:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009
NW RidgeNW Ridge with Prakash, Jamie and Jon. The ridge was easy, but getting there involved some nasty loose scree/talus. There is a useful climbers trail through parts of it though, definitely worth locating! Also went up Sneffels later in the day.
dakotaconcrete - Jun 3, 2009 1:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009
Northwest Ridge RouteBegan our trip from nearly 11,000ft. Overtaking blue lakes pass proved extrememly difficult due to its large corniced eastern flank. Turned around atop the pass after seeing several more very large cornices blocking our path via the main ridge to reach to the summit. All in all, disappointing but made for a great morning in a beautiful location.
SarahThompson - Sep 10, 2008 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2006
From Yankee Boy BasinStarted at the famous toilet in Yankee Boy Basin after an early fall snowstorm. Climbed up a horribly loose scree slope covered with a bunch of new snow (a total nightmare) to gain the NW ridge. Easy from there to the summit. Incredibly beautiful views, especially with the new blanket of snow. Also climbed Cirque Mountain before heading back. Kept in touch with my friend via radio as she climbed Sneffels - kind of fun.
RyanS - Oct 25, 2005 1:42 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2005I climbed Gilpin with Erin on a beautiful morning in the Sneffels Range. I'm glad we picked a short climb because the thunderstorms were ready to start before noon. The scree was a pain at times, but it wasn't that bad. The wildflowers were absolutely brilliant! A trip report is available here.