Gimme Shelter

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W
Additional Information Route Type: Rock- Classic Aid
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.7, A2+
Sign the Climber's Log


Take the NorthEast Buttress Approach to the large North Bench. Walk right ( west) across the Bench, past Everlasting, and two cracks past McCarthy North Face. This is the start of Emotional Rescue and Gimme Shelter.

Route Description

One week after he established Emotional Rescue with Chris Engle, in 1981, Frank Sanders returned and self-belay soloed Gimme Shelter.He discovered that it was more direct and actually easier than E.R.! This is a 3 Star Route if you like to aid!!!!! It is a highly enjoyable and secure climb that is mostly sure footed nailing with a few thin spots for thrills !!

Pitch 1. (145 ft., 5.7) Climb the 1st pitch of Emotional Rescue, up and over the bulge and set up your own belay.

Pitch 2 ( 120 ft., A2+) Aid up this crack. The crux is higher ; a string of tied off Knife Blades. A small tree and a horizontal crack occur at the same time. You can set a secure hanging belay there.

Pitch 3. (160 ft., A1 / A2) Now its getting good. Blades, Arrows and Angles lead ever up.The livin' is easy and the view is just fine !!. Towards the end of the rope, the crack deteriorates. Traverse left, across the TOP of a small roof and head for the Big Ledge of the McCarthy North Face Route.

Finish. ( 5.7 ) Climb to the summit via the McCarthy North Face Chimney .

Essential Gear

Standard Aid Rack, that should include about one dozen knifeblades and two dozen Arrows...oh yes, and tie-offs

Miscellaneous Info

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