Last time I climbed it was ten years ago. Nothing has changed. Memorable 2nd pitch. We used the first five pitches to access a new route named Blade Runner, 5.10b. We finished on its three pitches which makes for a total of eight pitches. This alternative finish definitely ads flair to the climb.
we were sprinting to its start and made it first - about 1 min later arrived a party of 2, 5 min later another party of 2, and half an hour later a party of 5!
Get an early start.
Wonderful route!!! We did the variation finish on the 7th pitch (the same finish as Unimpeachable Groping).
Climbed yesterday with Andy from JTree and another team of two. I led every pitch and was able to link 1&2 and 3&4 on a 70m rope with no simul. This makes the first two pitches epic. I'd only recommend this if you can runout the easy terrain and manage the rope.
P1: The wide crack from the ground, flake and chimney make this a memorable pitch. P7: The last pitch was also amazing. It had two chimney sections, one of which closes in behind you if you go in deep. It is easier than it looks.
After topping out we came back and did the last pitch of UG before rapping out in the dark.
Slow day and rapped after 4 pitches. Would like to go back and finish it.
We climbed this several years after Radek wrote the beta. I think a lot of the loose stuff has come off the technical pitches since then. There is still a lot of loose rock on the 4th class pitch that could be a danger to anyone on the lower pitches or near the base.
First 2 pitches were the most fun.
good route, in a party of three with Matt and Iris (I lead the first three, Matt the last three). It was freezing cold.
As always, Radek's notes were spot on, all you need to carry for this route. Pleasant rock and a fun short day at Red Rocks. Don't see any 5.9 moves on it. Mostly 5.7, but fun stuff. 2nd Pitch was our favorite with a cool small chimney deal. Nothing to the "crux" pitch, should not have been bolted. The last pitch (7th), is pretty neat, not to be missed. The notch is a cool position on Rainbow Mountain. The descent off of the back end (south) and return to the base is quick and easy. Route sees no sun during the winter days. With Tom from Indy.
Climbed it in spring 2000. Great alternative to Crimson Chrysalis.