Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Sep 28, 2010
Last Edited On: Sep 28, 2010


Gingerbread follows a striking flake and crack system up the east face of Upper Spire. Its juggy nature and ability to protect well makes Gingerbread an excellent route for those new to the Spires. Though it is possible to do the route in one long pitch with a 60m rope, most will opt for two pitches as the rope drag would be, well, petrifying.

Getting There

To reach Upper Spire, take the path heading northwest at the divergence near Middle Spire and follow the use trail to the base of the magnificent east face of Upper Spire.

Route Description

The Flakes of Gingerbread
Pitch One Jam, stem, lieback and pull your way up the steep but secure flake system. A small face traverse underneath a large flake leads to more liebacks and jams. At this point, jaunt up a large ripsaw flake using face holds for purchase and the big-hands (blue and yellow camalots) crack on the opposite side for pro. When this beautiful arete/flake ends, you'll find yourself at a fine ledge for a belay. Belay takes .75-3" inch cams.

Pitch Two Traverse left to a wide crack with a bounty of face holds to the left of the face. Plug a blue camalot at the back of the crack and pull on cool knobs until you top out.

Walk to the back of the semi-summit block to find bolts with rap rings on the face of the northwest side. A single rope rappel brings you to the bottom.

Essential Gear

Basic trad rack- doubles through 3" and a #4 for good measure, though optional.

Ash sitting on the lower summit of Upper Spire

External Links