Done in 2 days/1 night, camped on the summit. Sunset on the summit was one of the most beautiful things I've ever experienced.
50 hours car to car.
Glacier Peak in May? Who would've thought? We did the standard route, coming around Disappointment Peak on the Cool Glacier. Beautiful (but windy) weather on the summit; I could see the Oso mudslide with binoculars. There were three other people on the upper mountain that day, including Matt Smolinski doing a solo one-day ascent. He was moving fast. We were not.
Figured we'd cram in one more climb before the summer ended, and Glacier Peak seemed like a great way to fill the three day weekend. Started from the Sloan Creek campground, and camped about 2 miles before Glacier Gap (about 1/3 mile after cresting the ridge). Didn't get a view of the peak until near midnight, when the clouds finally cleared up some. Set out on Sunday for the summit at around 8:30; there was a solid cloud deck at around 7000', but we managed to stay mainly out of the clouds except for near the summit. About a foot of fresh snow on the mountain made for some fun navigation; past Glacier Gap we were making fresh tracks the entire way to the summit (in the end we were the only group to summit the entire weekend). Definitely recommend this climb; it has a much different feel than the other Cascade volcanoes
we were able to thread the needle weatherwise with a great group. Definitely a long haul to get in there. Took the standard route which had no technical difficulties but I could imagine getting pretty disoriented around the White Chuck glacier remnants in low visibility.
Took our time over 4 days in very high temperatures (90 degrees or more). There was considerable slushy snow-pack all the way from white pass to just below the summit. The traverse from White pass to up and over the ridge was unstable and steep making for some very nice adventure! (I executed my first, real -life self arrest after losing my footing.) The upper slope (summit pyramid) was quite steep but we managed to top out in beautiful, albeit deteriorating weather.
Such a wild and isolated place...
Great hike along the North Fork Sauk River to White Pass and then on to the base of the White Chuck Glacier where we camped. Awesome weather, albeit a bit smoky, the entire time on the mountain. Summited the next day and enjoyed over an hour on the top. The views were slightly obscured with all of the smoke in the air but still awesome. Camped out again at the base of the White Chuck Glacier before hitting the trail early the next morning. From White Pass on the hike out made the side trip to Indian Head Peak, the other P2K in the area.
Sauk trail to Shelter first day, then over the passes to camp in first basin below Whitechuck. Rained like crazy that night so we proceeded up another 1,000' in white-out conditions on our third day. Summited on 4th day via glaciers gerdine and cool, etc. One long day out. W Garbear.
North Fork Sauk Trail 649. Gerdine/Cool Glacier Route. Slightly crevassed at Gap so we roped for a short distance. Could do without crampons but we used them on the way up. Summited in the clouds so no view from the top but it was beautiful on the way up. Camped 3 nights but will stay longer next time because it's so nice. Will do it again.
climbed the "standard" route from car to car. Never doing that again...
Views from summit was one of the best in the Cascades.
Hey Endo. I'm about to climb the standard route, going through White Pass to Glacier Gap. Any suggestions? Why wouldn't you do it again?
Would really appreciate any insight before our trip in about 2 weeks.
Thanks for your help!
took our time, 5 day backpack from sauk river trail head. beautiful place,decent weather and man this peak is buried in the cascades!
12h car-to-car from North Sauk trailhead via the standard Gerdine/Cool route. Glacier gear and even crampons are overkill for this long but scenic route. Trip report.
Last WA Volcano, finally!
What a gorgeous trek..I stayed at glacier gap and made a slushy summit trek in morning. Go early! Spent two hours napping on a sunny summit though! :)
Climbed in four days via Disappointment Peak Cleaver scramble. Took two days for the approach. One day for the climb from camp at Glacier Gap. One day to go back to the car. Crampons were necessary to descend one of the snowfields past Glacier Gap. The views were very nice. I ate some huckleberries on the hike back to the pass. The weather was ideal. Very clear skies and warm temperatures.
Short trip from the gap. Great place to watch the sun go down.
Did this one as a Mountaineer climb via the Kennedy Glacier.
Climbed with Dennis P.. Excellent weather. Had a great high camp at 7000 near the outlet of the basin west of Glacier Gap. I think EastKing passed by our camp. Some crevasses along route. Boot path crossed right over some. Saw a runner on Saturday who said he completed the roundtrip in about 13 hours!