Glacier Peak Climber's Log

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Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Aug 28, 2007 12:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

White Chuck / Cool Glacier...  Sucess!

Perfect summit day weather. Long approach. Very interesting walking on what used to be under the White Chuck Glacier. Had Glacier Gap and the summit to ourselves. Water is still running through the camping area of Glacier Gap. We took four days giving us enough time to R&R along the way...


YEM - Aug 20, 2007 7:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006

Cool Glacier

Mazama climb. A long but easy climb in good visibility. The short icefall was enjoyable. We were blasted by 3 fighter jets flying under the deck. Some of the best views around.


Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:14 am

Via Whitechuck  Sucess!

One day ascent from NF Sauk via Whitechuck Basin


mbollino - Mar 7, 2007 6:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002

Sitkum  Sucess!

Nice and easy climb. Fantastic views of lower Cascade peaks from the summit, unique among Cascade volcanos. Descent entailed the longest and best glissade of my life! Reason enough to go back!


flahaut - Jan 22, 2007 1:08 am

Long Approach  Sucess!

Long Approach. Going up and over Dissapointment Peak left our party quite exposed.


nodbod - Jan 19, 2007 10:41 pm

Cool Glacier  Sucess!

Awesome climb. Definately the funnest volcano climb in Washington


osatrik - Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999

Frostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm  Sucess!

Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience.
Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far.
Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out.


brother - Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

Gerdine/Cool  Sucess!

What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic.

RandyS - Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

Gerdine/Cool Glacier  Sucess!

The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well.
The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion.
We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward.
The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day.
My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be.

Snidely Whiplash

Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985

Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier  Sucess!

A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes. Saw F-14's flying in the valleys below us. Bad experience with the rangers up here. They told us the Sitcum Glacier was impassable and that nobody had successfully climbed that way in over 3 weeks. We're no climbing hot shots, but we blasted through the ice fall like nothing and made the summit in 3 hours from camp. This is the experience where I learned to question everything the rangers tell you.


mandrake - Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm

Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003  Sucess!

Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit.


Norman - Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am

Route Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005  Sucess!

Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail.

dicey - Sep 4, 2005 2:47 pm

Route Climbed: Frostbite ridge, Kennedy glacier Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002

Haven't made the tipy top on either attempt...argh!


cgclimber - Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm

Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000  Sucess!

Came back for seconds.


cgclimber - Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm

Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999  Sucess!

My first time on a glacier.

Scott Dusek

Scott Dusek - May 30, 2005 9:17 pm

Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: June 21st 2000  Sucess!

Dad and I took the plunge. Stayed on top, beautifull night.

Aaron Dyer

Aaron Dyer - Mar 23, 2005 11:16 pm

Route Climbed: Frostbit Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003

Weather turned us back two days in a row


cgailey - Aug 29, 2004 12:58 am

Route Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

What an incredible mountain. To emphasize how attractive it is, a friend of mine and I from Anchorage both flew down to climb it. And to think that we don't have enough mountains to climb in AK!

This route is very tame...just a long arduous hike. Well worth the effort and I would do it again in an instant. Unfortunately, our trip was cut short (we planned to hike out via the PCT heading north after the summit) by bad weather, but the time spent at Boulder Basin was most excellent. Mac and Cheese at the summit was nice as well!

Derek Franzen

Derek Franzen - Aug 16, 2004 10:48 am

Route Climbed: White Chuck Glacier / Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 14/15/16 1978  Sucess!

With Ann & Ken Winkes, Barb Richey and other SAC member, Tad. Long hike in to Glacier 1st day. Climbed up White Mountain on way in, great place for photos. Next day up Glacier to Cleaver, climbed directly up Cleaver and then on to summit. Fairly high winds at summit, did not hang around too long. Back to camp, good glissade down alongside Cleaver. White Chuck glacier seemed quite flat on way down. After leaving glacier members seperated somewhat on way to camp. Tad didn't show up at camp and after 1/2 hour we went searching for him. Tad was sound asleep on a boulder near the terminus of the glacier, we coaxed him back to camp before dark. Another long hike out the next day. Not too many flies, good weather.


esugi - Mar 1, 2004 12:54 pm

Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: August 24, 2003  Sucess!

Absolutely beautiful day as can be seen from my photo submissions.

This is my second summit of G.P. After the first time, I vowed never to return again (the 10 mile approach in one day with BIG flies eating me up was not a very pleasant experience!) 3 years later, I was back again, this time the same 10 mile approach but NO flies.

Our 3 man rope team left boulder basin at 2:15 am and summitted at 8 am. The view from the summit of this mountain is one of the best!

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