Finally got up this one after being weathered off two previous times. Went up via Sitkum Glacier. A year or two after this the Kennedy Hot Springs and the White Chuck River trail got wiped out by a large mudslide. Glad I got to check out the springs while I could. My last volcano in Washington.
Passed many very wet climbers on the way in on Memorial day. It had been wet all weekend, but the forecast was promising. Camped at treeline so we could have a fire and dry out. Started clearing in evening and the climb was great. The wet snow was frozen in the morning and made perfect stairs. Previous attempts: Aug 1979 watched Persaid meteor showers the night before and started too late in morning, June 1980 foggy, July 1980 very close, best clear views.
Leading and loving life...
First time was a solo from Boulder Basin, avoided cravasses by some strange variation I don't remember. Second time was with friend in white-out. http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/darrington/glacier_peak_washington_428.htm
We decided to approach from the south from White River/Indian Creek since all of the other standard approaches had road damage, it was an over twenty mile approach one way. One of our team members bonked at about 9000 feet. Me and the other member made it to the saddle between Disapointment Peak and Glacier Peak, at this time we decided to turn back for a few reasons, Our collective team experience, it was getting late, we were tired and had agreed to meeting back up with the other member of our team by a certain time. It was a great time though and I saw my first bear! on the PCT. Good stuff.
Terrific climb, perfect weather ... some of the most spectacular backcountry that I have ever seen!
Hiked in North Sauk river trail and camped close to White Chuck glacier with Norman. Had mountain to ourselves in good weather. Long trip with easy glacier travel.
via the old Kennedy Hot Springs route (aka Sodoms sans Gomorrah hot spring box pour deux). had the summit to ourselves. watched marmots TEAR through our neighbors camp the day before (never interfere with nature! they should have buried their food)
Via White Chuck Glacier, Disappointment Peak. Descended Cool glacier. Low visibility on summit. Great trip.
My first real climb
Way cool alpine route
We stopped at Glacier Gap because of poor weather and low visibility. Boohoo. Next time. Hope the trip report helps others. Check it out.
After more than 10 days in the Glacier Peak Wilderness we crossed Buck Creek Pass and on down into the Suiattle River valley. We worked our way up a ridge overlooking the Chocolate Glacier. Camped just below snow line. Next morning got on glacier (Cool?) and practiced crevasse rescue by sliding down in one to a shelf about 30 feet down. We climbed to the summit without incident and prepared for the night on top. We had fire fighter's pads, thin closed cell foam. Behind rocks we laid our pads and rigged our plastic sheet tarp over us. I froze my but off all night. I put everything I had, extra clothing, pack etc under me trying to stay off the snow under me. The sunset and sunrise were very nice as were the city lights of Seattle. (Wasn't hard at all getting up before sunrise)Next day headed down White Chuck Glacier. On a steep section , Chip the guy in the center of the rope fell and did nothing to self arrest. I turned and dug in hard but it just pulled me off the slope. I fell aways and was really pissed and was ready this time and got him stopped. I looked to my right and next to me was the guy on the lead of the rope with Chip dangling on the rope below us. Just before he fell I had taken my gloves off for something so my knuckles were all skinned up but other than that all was well. We camped at the small lake at the foot of White Chuck Glacier which was almost covered with snow. The winter 71/72 was a record snowfall year which was only recently broken so we were on snow much of the time while in the Wilderness. There was a nice face of rock there so we decided to rock climb for a while before heading up to join the trail White Pass. From White pass we went on to Indian pass down the ridge on the SW side of the Sauk River. We finally bushwacked down to the Sauk and to the road there.
I am sure many of these places now have route names, names I did not know then, the gear we had would be looked at as junk now (wooden handled ice axes,helmets with cotton webbing suspension, plastic tarp for a tent)but its been a long time since I did this climb but it is still vivid in my memory and was a great adventure.
Fun climb with the Mazamas. Hungry marmots raided my food at boulder basin. They even got my coffee/cocoa mix!!!
My buddy Rhane and I attempted the East side, as it looked like a fun challenge. It indeed was. After 16 miles the first day, up and over buck creek pass, we ended up staying at 4200' in a canyon at the foot of Chocolate glacier. The next day we hiked up the canyon, crisscrossing the glacial creek, and climbing up and up. Almost moon like with how little plant life there was in such a big area. We crossed several crevasse fields, and climbed one 30ft ice wall, which we later learned we could have avoided, but didn't know because of the foggy weather. We made it up within 100', but we were loosing daylight fast, and thought there was more scrambling up ahead of us from what we could see, so we turned around. Great trip, didn't see anyone out there for several days. Saw a good sized bear, an elk, deer and some ptarmigan too. We'll be back to finish it.
Frostbite Ridge: Man the Approach sucks! Nice classic glacier travel (as one would expect). Remoteness is relaxing, if you like that kind of thing.
Summited on day 6 of a 31-day (actually, only 20 days in the North Cascades) NOLS Outdoor Educator course from our high camp at 8560' on the Cool Glacier. Came in from the N Fork of the Sauk, continued onward to Dome Peak and the Ptarmigan Traverse, then out via Mineral Park. Beautiful, incredible clear skies and pleasant temps for almost all of those 20 days...
Perfect summit day weather. Long approach. Very interesting walking on what used to be under the White Chuck Glacier. Had Glacier Gap and the summit to ourselves. Water is still running through the camping area of Glacier Gap. We took four days giving us enough time to R&R along the way...
Mazama climb. A long but easy climb in good visibility. The short icefall was enjoyable. We were blasted by 3 fighter jets flying under the deck. Some of the best views around.
One day ascent from NF Sauk via Whitechuck Basin