Glory Dome, 5.8-5.12a

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Glory Dome, 5.8-5.12a
Created On: May 24, 2018
Last Edited On: May 30, 2018


Overview/Approach

Hope and Glory, 5.8*
Dow leading Hope and Glory, 5.8*

Glory Dome has three published routes on it as of 2018.  To find yourself here, you more than likely were attracted to the larger formation nearby named Pep Boys Crag.  Glory Dome is also not far from the popular (easy climbs) destination named The Cathouse.  Miramontes guide calls this area Roadside Rocks which includes formations on both sides of the main Park Blvd road just west of Intersection Rock.  What led me to Glory Dome was a day spent at the formation of Pepboys and Dihedral Rock.  I noticed a moderate trad lead by the name of Hope and Glory, 5.8*, that sounded good and it did turn out to be worthwhile.

At the first turnout west of Intersection Rock, park along the road and head south.  It should only take you five minutes to reach.  You are looking for a small dome like formation with an arch cut across its northern face.  Hope and Glory climbs a flake/crack on the right of this face.  Glory Road, 5.12a**, is a bolted line to the left of Hope and Glory.

Route Descriptions, Left to Right

No Guts, No Glory- 45'-5.10c/

Glory Road- 60'-5.12a**/

Hope and Glory- 40’-5.8*/ Full on off the deck for the grade.  Climb the curving (left) perfect finger crack with minimal feet.  After several meters the crack moves back right and becomes hands.   Continue to the top of Glory Road.  Place medium gear above the fixed chains for a belay and lower to an exposed fixed rap.  You can then use it to protect you whilst you go clean the top and then climb back down to rap.  Fingers to hands for gear.  Dow