12,068' Glover Peak
is located in the northern end of the Wind River Range
. It is located well west of the crest of the range and is the highest peak west of the upper Green River gorge, thus providing an outstanding viewpoint of the remote glacier thirteeners. The summit and the 12,045' north summit, due to position, also attract a fair amount of lightning and the infamous Wyoming wind. A small glacier carved a bowl into the east side, almost severing the two summits completely and leaving behind a tiny cirque (unfortunately it has all but disappeared). Though remote, the mountain is reachable on a schedule a couple days shorter than that required to penetrate further into the range and, due to its position and view, has seen a surprising amount of ascents.
If Glover is the main goal, the shortest approach is from the Willow Creek trailhead. From Pinedale, follow highway 191 NW for 6 miles to the Cora road. Follow this for eight miles, turning off the pavement onto a dirt road for ten miles to the trailhead. The Lowline and Doubletop Mountain trails are followed for 12 miles to the vicinity of No Name Lakes. It can also be approached from the north from Green River Lakes or the east from the vicinity of the Peak Lake cirque.
Regulations and Specifics
Managed by the Bridger Wilderness and National Forest
. Wilderness regulations apply for camp locations, group size, campfire restrictions and ethics. Backpacking stoves and water filtration are necessary. Undeveloped campsites exist at the trailhead. There are bear requirements for food storage. This area is Grizzly habitat, precautions must be taken.
Summer season in the Wind Rivers is generally July-September with snow lingering on the higher trails into July. A snow storm is traditional between the last week of August and the second week of September. This is often followed by a dry period with crisp temperatures for 1-4 weeks. Area roads are usually opened in early June but this trailhead, lower than most in the range, can be nearly reached most of the year. The tip of Glover is visible from this area webcam
. The approach is heavy with mosquitos and gnats June thru August.
Additional RoutePalmer Buttress
. Near the center of the wall is a four pitch 5.9 put up by Fred Beckey, B. Litz and D. Webber in 1989. This buttress is on an outlier of Glover.
Guides & Outfitters
Glover is guided by Exum
and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
are eager to support trips into this area by providing equipment and supply drops as well as horsepacking.
Etymology and Trivia
- Named after George Glover, a local, early 20th century forest ranger and game preservationist.
- 1st ascent in July 1939, by local doctor J. Copeland.
- Glover is pronounced "GLUH-ver".
- There is room for route exploration in the east face cirque, on the lower buttress, on the gneiss pinnacles in between the two summits, and on the 800' high north face of an unnamed peak overlooking Clark Creek, one-half mile north. The 1800' high Palmer Wall, under the west plateau of the peak, is virtually unclimbed.
- Glover has over 1700' of nearby prominence.
- Author/Guide Joe Kelsey, who has spent a lifetime in the Winds, rates this as one of the two best scrambles in the range.
Bonney, O.H. (1977). Guide to the Wyoming Mountains, 3rd Ed.; Swallow Press. Chicago,IL.