This classic climb takes a line up the vertical wall just right of the tunnel on the far right side of the Lower Town Wall. This climb features perfect rock and great protection with 2 possible alternatives for the third pitch.
From the parking lot, cross the railroad tracks then walk to the right (do not enter the forrest right away). Hike along the tracks for approximately 200 yards until you see a road entering into the woods to the left. Follow this to the base of The Country wall. The first pitch of GM start about 100 feet right of the tunnel. Look for the ledge at the start the obvious splitters above.
I'm going to describe the approach ("3rd class", per the guidebook) pitch as pitch 0 below. This thing would be scary as hell unroped.
- 5.2 - Start on the right side of the ledge and climb a low angle groove to reach the ledge. Now traverse the low angle "teflon slab" to your left using the thin fingercrack above for pro. Belay at the bolts. 50 feet
- 5.8+ - Climb up the seam that opens into a fingercrack then power through a couple strenuous bulges to reach the ledge above. Traverse the ledge to the left and belay at the bolts below the roof. 100 feet
- 5.9 - Move to the left and jamb the crack to reach the roof above. Now undercling the crack and traverse to your right with smears for feet. Jamb the strenuous dual #3 camalot cracks for 30 feet then pull throught the final offwidth bulge to reach the ledge above. Great pitch! 60 feet
Pitch #3, Option #1
- 5.9 - Move to the left off the belay then power up the short but interesting 5.9 squeeze to reach a rest above. Now jamb the fingercrack up and to the right to reach the #3 camalot splitter above. Jamb this for 50 feet to your belay at the top of the wall. 100 feet
Pitch #3, Option #2
- 5.10B - Heart of The Country variation - Move to the right off the belay to gain the right traversing fingercrack. Jamb this for a few moves to gain the amazing splitter handcrack above. Follow this for 40 feet of goodness up to the ledge above (easy 5.10a). Now power up the steep fingercrack (5.10b) angling to the left then scramble over and finish on the top portion of the third pitch of GM. 100 feet
- Rap the route with 3 single rope rappels. Another option is to scramble off to the right and downclimb the steep trail back to your packs.
1 set of cams to a #6 friend
Doubles in the #2 camalot to #5 friend range
1 set of nuts
60 meter rope
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