This nice multipitch ice climb in Leavenworth offers 6 long pitches of continuous climbing just left of Goat Dome. This climb offers loads of moderate ice with easy belays, a simple approach, and an easy descent. Recommended.
Park at the Snow Creek Wall parking lot then descend towards the river. Hike the trail towards Snow Creek Wall until you hit the irrigation channel. Now turn left and walk along the irrigation channel for 5 minutes until under the start of the falls. Hike up the snow slope to the base. Total approach time is about 15 minutes.
- WI2 - Climb directly up the moderate rolling ice and belay at one of 2 trees on the left. The higher tree has a sling. 195 feet
- WI2 - Climb up more ice staying to the right at the mixed band. Belay on the top of the mixed band. 195 feet
- WI2 - Climb directly up the ice and belay at the base of the steep crux waterfall. 120 feet
- WI3+ - Climb up the steep waterfall through the mixed band using ice and rock pro. Exit unto the lower angled ice above and belay where feasible. 130 feet
- WI2 - Climb up more moderate ice until you run out of rope at the base of the upper falls. 195 feet
- WI2+ - Climb up the upper falls and belay at the large tree on your right. 175 feet
Now scramble up to the top of the wall.
For the descent you have 2 options:
1. Climb and traverse to the right to a large ledge then do 1 double rope rappel and 2 single rope rappels to reach the gulley below. Downclimb this easy gulley back to your packs.
2. Climb up and all the way over Goat Dome then downclimb the gulley on the far side back to your packs.
8 - 10 screws
1 set of nuts
A couple angles
60 meter rope or doubles
This route would be a fun solo for an experienced ice climber.