Goat Track Gully

Page Type
Route
Location:
Cairngorms, Scotland, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Scottish II

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Goat Track Gully
Created On: Nov 12, 2003
Last Edited On: Feb 15, 2009

Approach

Walk into Coire an t-Sneachda...The walk-in

Start from the Coire Cas car park and follow the good track into Coire an-t-schnecda. Keep on this track until the boulder field by the twin lochans is reached (often mostly buried, but a couple of large boulders normally poke out). Directly ahead is the squat mass of Alladin's Buttress, bounded on the left by the easy snow gully of Alladin's Couloir. To the right is a more broken area seemed by vertical ribs, this is fluted buttress. Goat Track Gully lies to the right hand end of this just before the wide snowslope of the Goat Track itself (a popular descent).

Head diagonally right up the snowslope under fluted buttress until the last rocks are almost reached. 2 gullies depart from the same point, to the left is the chimney of Red Gully and to the right the deeper cut Goat Track Gully.
Approaching Fluted ButtressApproaching Fluted Buttress

Route Description

Of the 2 gullies clearly...Alladin's Buttress

Pitch 1: Climb over a bulge and into a broad area below a steep pitch.
Pitch 2: Climb the ice pitch on the right to a good belay
Pitch 3: Continue up the gully which runs out into open slopes
Pitch 4: Easy snow to the top.

Essential Gear

2 ice tools, crampons, helmet, slings, a few nuts and hexes


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