started on the normal route but missed the diagonal scree gully and ended up doing a mixed ice and snow gully in the middle of the west face.(note: general mountaineering axes not good for vertical ice.)
also soloed in Aug. 03'
Climbed Standard West Face route as the gully was full of snow. The scree was awesome! The favorite so far!
July 21, 2010...West face route with Bret and echoguy. the nasty gully is chock full of snow.
CLIMBED SOLO FROM SADDLE N OF SUMMIT BEFORE REJOINING OTHG FOR LUNCH ON MATAHPI
9/8/94 CLIMBED WITH VERN INGRAHAM OF WHITEFISH, MT VIA W FACE
7/9/2000 CLIMBED E FACE SNOWFIELD WITH GMS LED BY DON SCHARFE
7/21/09 Climbed solo along with Matahpi
Hit this one on my multi-mountain summit quest back in 1988. Very enjoyable, but lots of talus and scree, moreso than most Glacier mountains.
One of the loosest mountains I have ever climbed and ever hope to climb. Rocks going everywhere - heads up! The climbing was great though once we got in the cliff bands.
Fun climb- especially the top of the chute. Led this as a Rocky Mountaineer's trip- 3 of us summited. Seven hours RT.
Climbed both GTTS and Matahpi with Aaron & Ellen, and a GMS contingent. The diagonal couloir was filled with snow, so we traversed further south on the mountain, then went up through some interesting, fun, and a bit difficult group of cliffs. Followed by a slog up not very interesting, fun, or difficult (except mentally) scree. Climb was made MUCH worse on my disposition (and speed) by me contracting the worst blisters I've ever had...these boots have got to go! Looking back on it, though, the mountain (and the view from the summit) is, and was, magnificent! About an 11-hour day, if I'm remembering correctly.
Great climb, although poor route choices greatly prolonged the time to reach the summit. Despite clouds and a rainshower moving in summit views were great.
Climbed with a GMS group during Mountaineering week. Did the Matahpi-GTTS double. A 12 hour effort, but well worth it.
With Paul, Mathew and Martin Bishop in memory of a good friend.
Socked in solo on the Chute at 8,500 feet. Appropriate decision to turn around made. What a mountain. To be continued.
What a great climb-sort of....Took off from the parking spot in a light rainstorm with the thought "It'll clear up in a while" Kept on going through Preston Park and up to the saddle. One guy was using
trash bags for raingear-a riot to watch the "man from glad" attack the mountain. Got to the cliffs just
below the chute and 3 of our party of 6 bailed because it was starting to snow. Three of us kept on
going and were rewarded with a tremendous view of a snowstorm inside of a marshmallow....
(i.e. couldn't see a damn thing due to the clouds) Still a great hike and I will do it again sometime
when the forecast is a little better. A great way to spend a day with your dad however!
Summer 1969 via the W Face with Bill Bishop - great weather & a great day.
1990 via the Direct E Face with Paul Bishop - a long climb. 7 hours road to summit / 11 hours road to road.
Climbed with my wife Kim and her brother Robert, who is a ranger at Glacier. This climb was Robert's baby. Earlier in the week, he was the first responder on a rescue from this peak, and ended up taking a helicopter ride ("short-haul") from 8200 feet down to the road. Robert did a great job with the route-finding, which can get a little complicated.
After descending, we made a quick 1000-foot jaunt up Matahpi Peak before heading back to the car.